Reply With QuoteHaving trouble getting the picture to work???
Master
SupporterSanta was very good to me and left a winch for me to install!
I would appreciate your feedback on my wiring plan, and answers to my below questions. I have researched the forums for info, though haven't found everything I'm looking for in one place, so want to make sure I'm not missing anything....
In the absence of my diagram:
Battery (+) is going to the solenoid (under bonnet) via keyed-cutoff-switch. solenoid is wired to winch via red, green, yellow, and small black. Negative from winch motor back to battery.
Not connected yet to the circuit- ignition wired to in-dash switch ( Land Rover Auxiliary Switches for Defender 2002 onwards | Buy 4x4 Land Rover Toyota Nissan Accessories and Parts Online Store | Expedition Centre Australia by Mulgo)....where does this plug into system?
Description & Goal:
1) Solenoid under bonnet to reduce exposure to weather
2) Use of dash mounted, factory winch switch (Factory Look)
3) Single batter setup currently (Dual planned for future)
4) Vehicle- 2006 TD5 110
5) Winch- Quadratec Q11000
Questions:
1) General thoughts
2) Where does the +&- go for the dash mount cut off switch?
3) Is the dash mount cutoff sufficient, or do I also need the heavy duty, key-style cutoff switch?
4) Where should this be fused at?
5) Where would you draw the signal from the ignition circuit for the dash mount switch?
Thanks Heaps!!!
Master
SupporterHaving trouble getting the picture to work???
Super Moderator & CA manager
SubscriberPic is fine. Here's a bigger version.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Master
I would skip the key style cut off switch; it doesn't do anything that the solenoids aren't doing already.
My understanding of that dash switch is that it disables (cuts voltage to) the other necessary switch; the dual momentary "in/out" switch. Without the switch you have on the diagram, the "in/out" switch is always live. By having it there you are preventing accidental activation. The "in/out" switch delivers power to the solenoid pack. This circuit, like any other, would be fused as close as possible to the supply.
ChatterBox
SubscriberThis is what I have
Having a physical battery cut off switch is a good idea because it means that power to the winch control solenoids can be isolated in the event of failure, ie. solenoid contacts jammed on and unable to stop winch motor.
In the above diagram both batteries are coupled when winching which is a good idea. Also the high winch current does not go through the battery coupling device (in this case a solenoid). The dual pole coupling switch is also handy to couple both batterys in case the engine start battery is flattened. Another benefit is that this switch is rated to carry winching currents, most battery isolating switches are not. If using just one battery common the inputs of the switch as well as the outputs.
Deano
Master
SupporterUpdated per more research and responses on the thread. Is this more appropriate?
Master
SupporterSo a couple questions......
1) where is a good spot for me to tie into 12V ignition power? Is the passenger fuse block a good spot for this? i.e. New circuit in a blank spot?
2) where should I take the negative of the dash switch? -ve bus bar, or earth?
A Keeper of the TGO
For the dash switch you should be able to source wires close by to join into.Originally Posted by ThorneGator
It's easy to piggy back of the Air Conditioner switch(or similar) for the power and earth of the back lights(2 outer wires from memory).
For the switching power input maybe use the cigarette lighter as an option.
Although this is an acc feed the reality is you should be running the motor for the winch anyway.
The other bonus with this is if the switch is on and you leave the rig the winch will be isolated still.
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