Price sounds reasonable but you would be better splitting up the order to avoid GST and customs charges
Ok, The time has come to do the clutch on the Rover. Its been squealing since I got it (6 years ago) and now its starting to get hard to select 1st/Rev when cold. Both boxes are dripping a small amount of oil so I thought I'd replace the gearbox oil seals while its all out. Also, when the transfers out ill fit the Disco gears and an Ashcroft HD one piece cross pin. The parts Ive ordered are:-
Clutch Kit Valeo (GEN)
Duel Mass Flywheel
Flywheel Bolts
Rear Main Oil Seal (OEM)
Spigot Bush Td5
Clutch Pedel return spring
Clutch Slave Cly push Rod FTC5199
Clutch lever insert 571161
Clutch release pivot clip 576723
Transfer Case OH Kit
R380 Oil Seals
Heavy Duty Transferbox centre diff Cross pin
Water Pump Td5
I've also ordered a water pump as I've recently replaced all hoses and the thermostat. Seems like a good idea to do it. I've got to do the exhaust manifold so I'll do the WP then.
The total cost. inc shipping from the UK (not inc paddocks who won't give you shipping costs until the package is packed!) is $1269.62
So my question is, does this sound a fair price from those that may have done this recently?
I did ring LR for prices.....Dont even ask! and the other supplier quoted $2800 not inc Ashcrofts stuff or the water pump. I think its good, but gee it hurts leaving the account.
Price sounds reasonable but you would be better splitting up the order to avoid GST and customs charges
"The parts Ive ordered are:-"
Im guessing this means you have made your order already
My only suggestion would be dump the one piece cross pin and get an Ashcroft ATB for the centre diff
Makes rebuild a doddle and wouldnt be without mine now
search on LT230 Ashcroft ATB
Steve
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
Steve,
I would love to fit an ATB centre diff but unfortunately I just couldn't stretch the budget that far. In a perfect world I would also have ordered the gearbox overhaul kit and overhauled the gearbox while its out - just to be sure. But its just not possible ATM.
Why do you find the ATB so good? You've got me thinking.
read my review I put up in the tech section
I installed an ATB then two days later drove Cooktown-Tibooburra and back via as much dirt as the map allowed
Wouldnt go back to open centre
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
The two items that people often forget to replace or just dont know about:
The spigot bush (which I see you have) replacing that and coating it with copper anti-seize will stop that grone when cold in rev gear.
The other is the collar on the back of the gearbox output shaft, both the gearbox rear output seal and the transfer case input seal run on it, replace it as its a cheap.
Mainshaft collar. FTC4021
Regards
Daz
Thanks Daz.
I didn't even think about the collar. It's now ordered. ?2. Hardly worth leaving out.
I've never liked coating in copper slip I find it drys out and gets sticky. I don't like using it on the thrust bearing either although I know several who do.
I'm a bit old school in that I like to impregnate the spigot bush with oil. Although I've read that some don't like this either. The workshop manual is unclear on this.
There is only one collar, each seal runs on each side of it, you will see when you separate the g/box - t/case.
The spigot bush is actually oil impregnated anyway so in theory it shouldnt need anymore, but ya know Ive always done the extra bit anyway. I'm surprised at the number of TD5s that come in with the cold start up grone only to be told by the owner that they had recently had the clutch assembly replaced.
Regards
Daz
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