I would suggest to get a boost gauge installed and monitor it.
If its not a boost issue maybe try a fuel pump and injector reset/learn.
Other than that a bigger turbo feeds more air into the engine. Assuming that there is no issue with the intercooler and inlet air supply then the next issue is one of either turbo actuator or fuel.
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Ok, so i set up my scan gauge to give me a reading on boost, im seeing a max of about 18psi, but typically sits around 17 when its on boost - i cant seem to find what boost i should be seeing for a puma.
Watching the boost lower in the RPM certainly makes a few things clear about why it feels laggy compared to the original turbo. Climbing a hill under 2000rpm it struggles to reach boost and revs drop pretty fast on the steeper hills, i see the boost gradually increaseing from about 1500rpm reaching about 13psi by 1800-2000, full boost after 2000.
Driving up slight inclines i would have expected it to pull ok from 1500rpm or lower in 2nd/3rd/4th, boost doesnt make it over about 6-7psi and it just drops RPM forcing me to down shift - im not talking about super steep hills but mild inclines that would never have seen me downshifting with original turbo.
I've his turbo on for a while now, i dont remember it being so bad when it first went on though i do know its never been the same down low in the RPM since getting it.
Cal
Your boost pressure seems pretty close to stock
I have a BAS jigger but no ECU upgrade on my 2.4 just EGR delete
Manifold pressure max at about 17-19psi over atmospheric
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
Roverrescue, Thanks for the info, from what i understand when they do the tune for these upgraded turbos they dont up the boost pressure but more aimed at flowing more air volume, so i guess its close to the mark - it occasionaly spikes to over 18 before settling around 17. Can you tell me what yours does boost wise under 2200rpm, thats where this setup is really lacking right now.
I have had an alive tune for around 5 yrs, been through various mods and had the map changed, I had the LR software upgraded about 2 months ago and got a new Alive map for the new version, and since then it suffers similar issues to what you are describing, I don't have a bigger turbo though. But compared to the old alive map it sucks, no power low down, second gear on a hill dies out just after 2500 revs, change to third and it is not much better, the first four gears are just flat and feels like I am hanging around for the turbo to kick in. 5th and 6th are ok on the motorway.
I have asked them to review it to see whats up and why but still waiting on a response. Might be better for you going through Bruce Davis, but I am wondering who is doing the remaps these days, maybe the apprentice is trying his hand out.
I don't tow anything at the moment, but it feels like I am constantly towing a 3 ton camper into a headwind. The original map is actually better at the moment.
I would insist they go through the map with a fine tooth comb to make sure it is right.
If I don't get a decent map back that resolves my issues I am heading to BAS for one next year.
Pat
Cal
Ima few thousand nm away from the 130 at moment
BUT
A recent induction event letting out the "whoosh" led me to drive 400km with a IC hose leak. If I kept boost under 10psi then leak was not too terribly
Just happened to coincide with about 2000RPM
Boost builds very quick from 9psi on up so I'd hazard a guess that whilst accelerating though 2200 you could see somewhere around 12-15psi????
Obviously in cruise condition at 2200 this may settle down around the 10 or so
In a few weeks I'm happy to do a BAS plot record of absolute manifold pressure RPM roadspeed and atmo pressure
A 5min recording though varied conditions would give you tonnes of standard tune boost data vs speed vs RPM to ponder?
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
Hi Tombie, was this on a UK forum? do you have a link?
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