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Thread: How are defender panels and capping put together

  1. #11
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Jan 1970
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    Its a utility vehicle, and expected to get knocked about. That's why it has galvanised corner cappings so that the inevitable bumps and scratches don't matter (oops! they aren't any longer, are they?). If the vehicle was not intended as a knockabout one, presumably you would have got a Discovery?

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  2. #12
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    Thank you for your opinions i appreciate them.

    I understand that there is now a buffer between the steel and ali, but this is only right at the bottom. So what about the rest of the capping?

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by technophile View Post
    Thank you for your opinions i appreciate them.

    I understand that there is now a buffer between the steel and ali, but this is only right at the bottom. So what about the rest of the capping?
    The rest of the capping has the defective factory system which promotes galvanic corrosion.

  4. #14
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    Jan 1970
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    When rebuilding my 110, I applied wax oil to any steel component that sat against the alloy body. LR rely on paint to stop the corrosive reaction.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  5. #15
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    Not sure if it will make any difference but I have sprayed Lanox into every join and bit of capping that I could find on my MY15 Defender.

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