Puma 2.2 110 must upgrades?

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Originally Posted by AndyG

Could someone expand on this, whats HTE and if a non dealer changes the flanges more warranty hassles?

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Apologies......I sometimes forget not all Land Rover owners are first gen owners or arent know-it-alls (just kidding there folks)

HTE (High Tough Engineering) is a brand name of after market "heavy duty" axles and drive flanges.

As already answered, remove a wheel and the centre hub you will see a drive flange with 5 retaining bolts and a centre rubber dust cap. Removing the dust cap you will see the end of a splined axle with a retaining cir-clip. Its these outer splines that run dry and are hard to lube correctly. Further in about 200mm (where you cant see) is a inner axle seal that prevents diff oil from running out to the axle splines (which would of course then lube the outer splines) Land Rover (I guess) in there great wisdom thought it better to prevent "oil leaks" from the dust cap rather than lubing the splines.

Early Defenders didnt have the axle seal and didnt suffer this outer spline wear. To remove the seal requires the complete hub assembly to be dismantled. Using the HTE (or other after market) drive flange ends allows the outer splines to be lubed with grease (as mentioned in previous posts).

I'd only recommend using either the HTE or the ones from Ashcroft Transmissions. I believe there are some cheap rubbish knock offs available.

here is a link to my website, scroll down down down until you get to the pic of the HTE axle sets and all should become clear.
Land Rover TD5

Regards
Daz

If buying new gaskets for the drive flanges,
Take the flanges with you to make sure that the gaskets actually fit on the flanges....
A lot of the gaskets are to small.
Also the gaskets come in different thicknesses.

Regards,
Mike.

Is it possible, or worthwhile shoving some grease in with the standard axle, drive flange as an interim measure. And does this apply to both ends or just the rear?

Doh, front, CVs different geometry, different problems, different solutions

Finally, which grease, I'm thinking high temp bearing type?

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Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

IMHO, I think a lot of puma issues are compounded by the dealers (or the dealer to Jaguar Land Rover relationship??), owners taking their new Defender back to the dealers countless times to repair the same fault again again and again.



I'm sure like plenty of other indy Land Rover repairers, it really didnt take me too long to work out "new" issues with the Defender puma when they first started to come in with problems. Most were nothing more than a progression from repairs already learnt over the years with previous Defender, Discovery models. Some like the clutch rattle (gets thrown around as "gearbox rattle on idle") arent a new thing from a repairers point of view, but it wasnt a common thing on Defenders (some may remember 300tdi would do it now and then).



Don't know about other indys, but I'm not actually a rocket scientist and working on Land Rovers isnt rocket science (but does require some passion I guess (reads, Im a nut job?)) So how the hell do dealers seem to mis-diagnose or simply arent repairing the fault, how could they possibly not have learnt the faults of a model???



For the ones that have had "endless" faults with their Defender puma, my guess would be they are over the run around, back and forth, issues not resolved more than the actual vehicle fault itself.



This really isnt a "promo" for indy Land Rover repairers, its just how I see it (and quite happy if a mod feels the need to delete this post).



On topic to the thread though..

Axles - If your Defender puma is shiny new, get the drive flanges (yes leave the original axles) changed out to the HTE ones (standard width splines), this as already mentioned will allow the greasing of the outer splines as a normal service item and should in theory prevent early wear.



Regards

Daz

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Interesting reading and getting a bit paranoid now.
My 2013 110 is due for second service in May and will probably point out a couple annoying noises I hear.
One is clutch pedal squeak which I greased but no change.
The other is noise when stationary, I hear a small rattle coming from gearbox area and disappears when I press the clutch or rev the engine. This noise is more pronounced from outside the cabin.

Let's hope they will sort it.

No need to be paranoid,a few issue's that need sorting is all,no different to timing belts,injector looms,P gaskets or plastic head dowels,each model brings it's own new supprises. Pat

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AndyG

Is it possible, or worthwhile shoving some grease in with the standard axle, drive flange as an interim measure. And does this apply to both ends or just the rear?

Doh, front, CVs different geometry, different problems, different solutions

Finally, which grease, I'm thinking high temp bearing type?

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The difficulty is getting the grease into the outer splines (yes its both front & rear, the outer spline setup is the same, as in they go dry) on a standard setup as it only has a rubber dust boot. The after market axles (or rather the drive flanges) such as the HTE brand have a outer "dust" cap that is metal and screws onto the threaded drive flange end. This allows the inside of the cap to have some grease put in it, then when its screwed on the grease is forced down the splines, its very easy and as already mentioned becomes a standard service item to do.

Oh and another note, if just replacing the drive flange ends make sure you buy the standard length splined ones, they are the one marked WITHOUT the "X"

They arent expensive, $100 a set? dunno or each, still cheaper than doing the whole lot. I source most of my parts from Rovercraft.

Regards
Daz

Has anyone mentioned extended front seat runners? They made a huge difference to mine, with my long legs. Weren't expensive either from Mulgo. Also recommend the Mulgo brackets to allow the rear side doors to open to 90 degrees - easy to fit and really open up the door spaces. I would also recommend a rear wheel carrier (mine is Mantec to open with the door) and the doorstay to hold the heavy rear door open, so it doesn't slam shut.
These items just make the vehicle so much more usable I reckon they should be standard equipment from the factory.
I also plan to order a kit of stainless steel bolts to replace the galvanized ones on the door hinges, which rust.

Getting Silicone I/C hoses to avoid hose failure. I don't know what the procedure is for out of warranty vehicles is to get the appropriate combination of brackets, cable ties and chewing gum to make this a permanent fix.

You would hope the fix was available for all vehicles with this design fault.

Koni Raid shock absorbers, especially if you do long km's on dirt, first priority.

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Originally Posted by DiscoMick

Has anyone mentioned extended front seat runners? They made a huge difference to mine, with my long legs. Weren't expensive either from Mulgo. Also recommend the Mulgo brackets to allow the rear side doors to open to 90 degrees - easy to fit and really open up the door spaces. I would also recommend a rear wheel carrier (mine is Mantec to open with the door) and the doorstay to hold the heavy rear door open, so it doesn't slam shut.
These items just make the vehicle so much more usable I reckon they should be standard equipment from the factory.
I also plan to order a kit of stainless steel bolts to replace the galvanized ones on the door hinges, which rust.

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Disco, I've heard & read about the Mantec Rear Wheel Carrier. Seems to be a good product.
I've also heard & read about difficulties fitting to various 90s & 110s with alignment of existing bolt holes in rear cross member etc, & whether it'll fit with bumperettes etc?
What has been your experience?
Pickles.