Thread: Puma 2.2 110 must upgrades?

That's a terrible run with a vehicle.. I've had 3 Pumas, 200k between them and no driveline issues at all.. And they are work utes that are flogged hard from new.. Hope the gremlins are out of it for you..

Originally Posted by 1nando

So I've had quiet a few issues with my 2013 110 2.2 (3 rear diffs, Centre diff shims, new clutch and now a new gearbox)
So a simple question, to make the puma a reliable vehicle what are the must do upgrades?
I'm not talking bull bar's, sliders, lights etc I'm talking things like Ashcroft output shaft upgrade, Ashcroft axles etc......what do you consider necessary?

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Find a better dealer,thats my upgrade. Pat

Originally Posted by 1nando

So I've had quiet a few issues with my 2013 110 2.2 (3 rear diffs, Centre diff shims, new clutch and now a new gearbox)
So a simple question, to make the puma a reliable vehicle what are the must do upgrades?
I'm not talking bull bar's, sliders, lights etc I'm talking things like Ashcroft output shaft upgrade, Ashcroft axles etc......what do you consider necessary?

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I look with interest on this

Originally Posted by PAT303

Find a better dealer,thats my upgrade. Pat

To be honest I think my dealer has been very helpful. Every concern has been addressed and they are simply doing what has been instructed via the LR techs advice.

It's funny cause you read on this site about people's problems. Most are common and some are not. From my reading on this site rear 110 diffs, gearbox output shafts and shims seem quiet common. Don't know how much if not any blame can be placed upon the dealer. The dealer sells a vehicle built externally under none of their control. The vehicle is repaired under warranty via approval and advice of LR. .......

Poor TQM (total quality management) is not LR forte, this is well known among readers of this website. That's why I ask, what are the factory weak points that people belive need to addressed. Maybe some are lucky and they've had a pleasant experience with their landy....I'm just asking cause my experience has not been as pleasant. I love my landy, I do........but doubt is starting to creep in and my thoughts are becoming clouded, it seems that getting rid of it might be the only solution if I can't fix it.

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I don't have a puma. But from what I've read a tom woods DC propshaft is a good idea, some have gone as far as a Salisbury complete swap in the rear with Dana internal gear.
I guess it's up to you how far you want to go?
Standard suspension and tyres, lift and 255's, flares and 315's, locker rear and/ or front, extra fuel tanketc etc.??

Originally Posted by 1nando

To be honest I think my dealer has been very helpful. Every concern has been addressed and they are simply doing what has been instructed via the LR techs advice.

It's funny cause you read on this site about people's problems. Most are common and some are not. From my reading on this site rear 110 diffs, gearbox output shafts and shims seem quiet common. Don't know how much if not any blame can be placed upon the dealer. The dealer sells a vehicle built externally under none of their control. The vehicle is repaired under warranty via approval and advice of LR. .......

Poor TQM (total quality management) is not LR forte, this is well known among readers of this website. That's why I ask, what are the factory weak points that people belive need to addressed. Maybe some are lucky and they've had a pleasant experience with their landy....I'm just asking cause my experience has not been as pleasant. I love my landy, I do........but doubt is starting to creep in and my thoughts are becoming clouded, it seems that getting rid of it might be the only solution if I can't fix it.

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How many Kms has your car done, how much of that has been heavy off-road use and how heavily modified is the drive train (engine right through to tyres)?

Based on the list of issues and the recurring diff issues, yours seems to be one of the more extreme cases, not the norm. If it were me I'd be getting a second opinion/engineering report. Perhaps the work being done is fixing the symptoms rather than the root cause(s). I certainly wouldn't be simply dismissing a history like that as just poor TQM.

Hi , I hope you get your truck running reliable , and don't have any more problems . You would be starting to think once out of warranty them this is going to start costing heaps . I have a new 110 on order , I hope I don't have any of the problems your experiencing . good luck !!.. Jim ..

As I'd assume most Land Rover repairers would know, clutch replacement (a faulty ford thing), rebuilding the centre diff (excessive side gear shim wear), rear diff rebuilds, and rear axle replacement (excessive worn splines) is a pretty common "puma" thing. I prolly do more of the above work on puma Defenders than the previous TD5 model to the point I'm now having to keep parts in stock.

Clutch - This is a known fault and has plagued other vehicle models including the Ford Ranger, Mustang (from memory??) etc. The APT clutch kit seems to resolve this. As for the gearbox itself, I personally believe its a step forward in terms of reliability over the older R380.

Centre Diff - My own theory of this is the preload is not done correct from factory, there is a reason the two shims at each end of the centre diff assembly are called a "selective thrust". I suspect on build one size selective thrust is used, so some assemblies are going to be a bit tight, while others are going to have too little preload, thus causing excessive side gear movement and therefor wear. This wear is also compounded by drivers that dont use the centre diff lock while offroad and are simply relying on the traction control.

Axles - Although from that point Land Rover put in a axle seal, excessive outer spline wear became the norm, Ive had numerous new Defenders in with as little as 70K with terrible out spline wear, which makes one ponder the quality of the axles/drive hubs used. Upgrading to the HTE axle sets and front drive flanges solves this, even if you dont remove the axle seal. The outer spline is easy to lube by remove the screw on cap, packing grease in the cap and screwing it back on. This pushes grease into the splines and becomes a standard item to do at service intervals.

Rear Diff - 2002 onwards Defenders used the P38 diff, the failures seem higher, but once rebuilt if done correctly that really should be it. I fail to understand how a diff can be repaired/replaced three times??? Even under warranty, why would they not rebuild the diff (as its then going to be fixed once) nor can I see how that can be blamed on the manufacturer.

Other mechnical items to do:
*Change grease nipples on front prop shafts to a 90 deg one will actually allow a grease gun to be connected.
*Add a grease nipple to the clutch pedal pivot shaft.
*Underbody corrosion protection.

Again, personally I think the puma Defender is a good improvement over the previous model in terms of overall reliability.

Ofcourse once a Defender owner gets that bug there are heaps of cool mods to do.

Regards
Daz