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Thread: Puma 2.2 110 must upgrades?

  1. #71
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    Hello Giants , I have the rails 3cm up and up to 5 cm back ,and it works the best for me ( I am 5'9")
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  2. #72
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    Sexiest deefer steering wheel I've ever seen. Pat

  3. #73
    stewie110 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    IMHO, I think a lot of puma issues are compounded by the dealers (or the dealer to Jaguar Land Rover relationship??), owners taking their new Defender back to the dealers countless times to repair the same fault again again and again.

    I'm sure like plenty of other indy Land Rover repairers, it really didnt take me too long to work out "new" issues with the Defender puma when they first started to come in with problems. Most were nothing more than a progression from repairs already learnt over the years with previous Defender, Discovery models. Some like the clutch rattle (gets thrown around as "gearbox rattle on idle") arent a new thing from a repairers point of view, but it wasnt a common thing on Defenders (some may remember 300tdi would do it now and then).

    Don't know about other indys, but I'm not actually a rocket scientist and working on Land Rovers isnt rocket science (but does require some passion I guess (reads, Im a nut job?)) So how the hell do dealers seem to mis-diagnose or simply arent repairing the fault, how could they possibly not have learnt the faults of a model???

    For the ones that have had "endless" faults with their Defender puma, my guess would be they are over the run around, back and forth, issues not resolved more than the actual vehicle fault itself.

    This really isnt a "promo" for indy Land Rover repairers, its just how I see it (and quite happy if a mod feels the need to delete this post).

    On topic to the thread though..
    Axles - If your Defender puma is shiny new, get the drive flanges (yes leave the original axles) changed out to the HTE ones (standard width splines), this as already mentioned will allow the greasing of the outer splines as a normal service item and should in theory prevent early wear.

    Regards
    Daz
    Hi Daz,

    This is the first time that I have read the term "HTE" I am interested to know what that actually means.

  4. #74
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    Nov 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by stewie110 View Post
    Hi Daz,

    This is the first time that I have read the term "HTE" I am interested to know what that actually means.
    Hy tough engineering......don't worry, I found out on this thread too

    Sent from my GT-I9505 using AULRO mobile app

  5. #75
    DiscoMick Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    All that needs to be done is four spacers plus longer bolts under the existing base, legalities aside....

    It gives you much more leg room for those of us over 6' and is well worth it, but I see it could be an issue if your height is in your torso and not your legs.
    I'm all legs and vision out to the side is a little restricted, but to the front is fine.
    My rails are the ones through Mulgo which are longer, but do not lift the seat any higher. I'm tall with long legs and arms and didn't want height, but I did want more length to get the legs in more easily.
    Now I'm comfortable without actually having the seat all the way back, so it could go even further. I also find my elbow no longer rubs on the door handle, as it did at the standard position, so it's all good.


    I also fitted Mulgo's extenders for the rear side door openings so the doors open to 90 degrees, giving much easier access. Only cost a few bucks, but make a lot of difference when people or items are being loaded or unloaded. For example, its now much easier to lift our 40 litre Engel fridge into the rear side door opening than it was before, because the door is now held fully open.


    Another good thing I fitted was a stay to hold the back door open. This has proven very beneficial now we have rear drawers fitted, since the door is held open and then the drawer slides out without hitting the inside lining on the door. This was a Mantec door stay.


    Another must we have fitted is the Mantec rear wheel carrier which opens with the rear door in one movement. When we got the 110 the wheel was still on the rear door, which was rattling and had begun to deform because of the weight. With the wheel carrier holding the wheel, the door doesn't rattle at all, even on the worst corrugations, and seals much better. Worth every dollar, I reckon.


    These are all simple things, but so good that I reckon they should be standard.

  6. #76
    Tombie Guest
    Mick they have to lift the height - even marginally...

    As that is how they (a) Fit the extra set of bolts (b) clear the lip at the back of the seat box...

  7. #77
    DiscoMick Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    Mick they have to lift the height - even marginally...

    As that is how they (a) Fit the extra set of bolts (b) clear the lip at the back of the seat box...
    I'll have to check, but I think mine has a bit of an upkick in it at the back. So minor its not noticeable.


    http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...ders&FORM=IGRE

  8. #78
    cuppabillytea's Avatar
    cuppabillytea is offline Loud Mouthed Rat Bag Gold Subscriber
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    Lift your lid.

    Here's one little Mod that for me was essential. I found that hard right hand bends and leans to the left, greater than about 15 degrees, had me wanting more support for my left arm. The B pillar does a great job when you're going the other way. So I came up with this mod and had my Brother Bob make it for me. It's tailored to fit me so it could never be a store bought option. The cutaway is to allow unimpeded gear lever movement. The lower passenger side is for my shorter Missus and the rise in-between prevents the passenger/navigator from sliding into the driver when it's a rougher ride.

    Sorry about the mess in my car. It's the traveling with Kids thing.
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    Cheers, Billy.
    Keeping it simple is complicated.

  9. #79
    Tombie Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by cuppabillytea View Post
    Here's one little Mod that for me was essential. I found that hard right hand bends and leans to the left, greater than about 15 degrees, had me wanting more support for my left arm. The B pillar does a great job when you're going the other way. So I came up with this mod and had my Brother Bob make it for me. It's tailored to fit me so it could never be a store bought option. The cutaway is to allow unimpeded gear lever movement. The lower passenger side is for my shorter Missus and the rise in-between prevents the passenger/navigator from sliding into the driver when it's a rougher ride.

    Sorry about the mess in my car. It's the traveling with Kids thing.
    Very cool!!!!

    An ExBox fitment achieves a similar result

  10. #80
    Join Date
    May 2014
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    Just installed some HITUFF HD drive flanges all round, and Nugget's sealed air system on the Land Rover RAI. I can't believe what a difference they've both made. I'd say most backlash is gone. Much, MUCH better drivability at low speeds in traffic. I really think the HD flanges are the way to go. Mine's 2015 110 with 20k on the clock. The axles still seemed fine. Nugget's kit is great as well: very defined intake noise now which sounds great, and it may just be me but it also seems to have slightly improved throttle response. Could be wrong though, or it could just be how smooth everything is now with the HD flanges. Anyway, 2 highly recommended pieces of kit!

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