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						Bugger, bloody picture didn't seem to load properly...
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						Hopefully this works....
Last edited by Dopey; 29th December 2016 at 03:38 PM.
Got it. Thanks. That one was where I though it was now I've got to work out how to get to the wires.
No offence, but from the line of your questions if your driving a ford or a td5 stop and get a spark to check your work and buy a copy of the rave from incisors shop
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Its a 2014 2.2 110 wagon and as I've stated I just wanted an easy spot to plug in a positive wire. As I'm not a mechanic I tend to only want to undo what is necessary to get the job done.
A big thanks to 90@ for answering my questions and taking the time to post photos.
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						I've enjoyed this post , because I'll have this job to do soon , and like looking how others go about It , how they wire up there driving lights . The ones I currently have are wired from next to the battery , If there is an easier way I'll be in on that , so please let us know which way you go , and how they came out !!.. Jim
I'd already worked out that your neither a sparky or mechanic from the questions you were asking and the way you were asking them.
That would be why i recommended you buy the rave (or it's equivalent) cd so you had the manuals so you had a heads up on what you were doing and then to have a sparky check over your work preferable before you hook it all up.
Your car your call, but it's not like working on the old clunkers your used to hacking on.
If you'd like you can call it me presenting you with a warning or the opportunity to avoid an I told you so.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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						Loneranger,
Dave (Blknight.aus) is not having a go at you,
He's just speaking from experience in helping people out on Aulro.
Lots of stuff can go wrong if you do make a stuff up or whatever and it will probably save you money and time to get it done by an auto electrician.
Regards,
Mike.
So far we've used the traxide kit to do the headlight relays and also have the kit (from traxide) to do the spotties.
As for the driving lights, the biggest issue was trying to work out the anatomy of the Defender. We knew what needed to be done and why but just couldn't for the life of us find the 'where'.
Once we've got the whole lot done and checked we'll put an update on our thread in the members ride section.
Thanks for the heads up, didn't know the CD's went up to the current model - thought they were only for the older ones. Will pay a visit to Dave's shop and also a visit to a sparky to make sure it's all okay.
Not being professional mechanics we do like to get our work checked by a pro. Actually have done for a couple of decades now ever since bleeding brakes on LoneRangers 1958 Wolseley 1500. The RAC checked that one over and were impressed by the workmanship given the difficulty of the job and that we were only teenagers at the time. But definitely better to be safe than sorry.
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