Converting front electirc windows to live feed-thoughts?

**alien** · 9th May 2015, 03:48 AM

Here is my dilemma for the AULRO brains trust...
Quite often when tripping we tend to stop with the windows down late in the arvo.
As I do the pack up thing before hitting bed once dark I need to put the windows up, no surprise there.
To do it needs the ignition key turned on but as I have Day Time Running Lights I tend to light up the camp ground

At the moment, if I remember I need to also turn on the parkers to stop the DTRL but this just puts out less light to the camp ground also.

So I'm thinking of doing a quick rewire for the electric window relay power source.
I found an old thread with a timer fitted but it wouldn't solve my issue.
I'm not worried about the windows being used with no key as the back ones wind by hand anyway.

Has anyone done this?
What are your thoughts?
Next step is to see how easy the dash fuse box comes out for access if I go with the idea.
I should add this is for a 2011, Puma (110).

**Homestar** · 9th May 2015, 06:32 AM

Personally, I can't see an issue with this Kyle as long as that circuit doesn't pull any power while just sitting there - through a relay that stays energised, etc, you should be all good.

**p38arover** · 9th May 2015, 06:59 AM

Just a thought, will the windows close if you hold the lock button depressed or if you put the key in the lock, turn, and hold it in lock? (Both methods work on my 20-yo P38A.)

**bee utey** · 9th May 2015, 07:21 AM

Originally Posted by bacicat

Personally, I can't see an issue with this Kyle as long as that circuit doesn't pull any power while just sitting there - through a relay that stays energised, etc, you should be all good.

Quite. A friend of mine rewired his old Volvo that way and the subsequent owner wondered why the battery always went flat within a week. I suggest you fit a momentary switch to the window circuits so you can temporarily power them up but generally they're off.

**pop058** · 9th May 2015, 07:42 AM

Originally Posted by bee utey

Quite. A friend of mine rewired his old Volvo that way and the subsequent owner wondered why the battery always went flat within a week. I suggest you fit a momentary switch to the window circuits so you can temporarily power them up but generally they're off.

As BU suggests, a momentary push button that has an interdependent live feed that operates the factory UP relay only. As simple as it get with the bonus of the bypass switch can only be used to close the windows (security

) and draws no current when not in use.

**p38arover** · 9th May 2015, 08:59 AM

Originally Posted by pop058

As BU suggests, a momentary push button that has an interdependent live feed that operates the factory UP relay only.

Operated by the driver's door lock?

**bushrover** · 9th May 2015, 09:27 AM

Originally Posted by bee utey

I suggest you fit a momentary switch to the window circuits so you can temporarily power them up but generally they're off.

This is what I did to mine............hold the momentary switch and activate the window switch. I put diodes in the power supply to the window switches so I wouldn't get any back feed. Don't really know if I needed them or not.

Rick

**pop058** · 9th May 2015, 03:59 PM

Originally Posted by p38arover

Operated by the driver's door lock?

That way when you remotely lock the car, the windows would automatically close. I might try that on my D1

**p38arover** · 9th May 2015, 04:14 PM

That might need a timer otherwise the switch would be operated while ever the car is locked. The switch needs to sense the key being turned to lock.

**alien** · 9th May 2015, 05:32 PM

Thanks for the input troupes.
Looks like it may be time to have a look at the wiring diagrams and play with the key too.

Not real worried about if the windows can be used full time as the back door has manual handles anyway

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