Thread: 300tdi crank

Personally I'd avoid any thought of welding, just get a new balancer and install it using Loctite 620 retaining compound or any similar type of shaft repair goo, then do the bolt up properly. See any bearing shop for that kind of product. The 300TDi that I fitted to a mate's RRC had a loose balancer with some shaft wear, the new balancer has been on no probs for the last 6 months and it's been in daily use.

Thanks bee utey. I will look into that. Appreciate the advice. I'm hoping to get it running a little longer before I go down the rebuild pathway!

I'd use studs if all else fails,don't weld. Pat

Hi pay what do you mean by studs? Like a grub screw into the shaft?

Can you post a picture of the nose of the crank

One option is if the crank nose is salvageable
at 180* to the original woodruff grind/dremel/scratch a new key way and then install and new harmonic with new key and use some lokite-magico to ensure a good fit. Tighten bolt and move on.

If the crank nose truly is fubar then I would think that truly aligning and welding on the harmonic would be a recipe for failure.

There is always a way photos will help us sketchy & dodgy mechanics come up with the way

steve

Hi roverrescue. The tow forgot to pick up the fender today so it'll be home tomorrow. Il have pics up ASAP! Thanks

Need to see a photo of your damage.

As for me I bought a disco 1 tdi where the balancer had 'worried' the key way channel before shearing the key itself.

The key way was worn on the pressure side. The other side of the keyway was as originally manufactured.

Along the lines of what roverrescue suggests, I widened and reformed the damaged part of the key way with a dremel cutting disk.

I then put in a standard key against the undamaged side. The remaining gap I filled with a bit of filed down scrap metal, flush to the surface of the crank. I then used liquid metal to fill any other gap, and to glue the filed metal in place. Been good ever since.

The timing belt key was unaffected by the lack of nose bolt pressure - my guess is the small size/lack of mass reduces the chance of damage.

If your crank has been tapered for example, you could try building it up with liquid metal and hand shaping it to approx round then bolt the balancer to the specified torque. It's the bolt that really does the job. Under force of the bolt the balancer will try to position itself correctly against the flat of the timing cog, despite any out of roundness with hand shaped liquid metal. From my experience with the harmonic balancers in Disco 1's they don't seem to be properly concentric anyway. Worth trying a self fix if faced with new crank/engine. Regarding an engine you should be able to get one second hand relatively cheaply.

Mine did the same I glued it with bearinglocktite and used 2 washers to stop the bolt bottoming out. It's been good for another 60k