Thread: 2013 Puma - to wade or not to wade

I may be faced with a crossing up to 700mm deep. I do not have to cross, it is simply a matter of choice to go see a waterfall / gorge.

The crossing has a smooth concrete base and is not flowing fast.

My 110 is stock aside from a snorkel (sorry "RAI"...) which was sealed with silicone both at car body and also where the intake joins the pipe to the air box.

SWMBO is not keen on the crossing, so I will catch hell if things go amiss!

If Land Rover say 500mm presumably they have a healthy margin of safety in there?

Would love to hear the wisdom of experience in taking the puma into water

Cheers

Simon

I have posted this before but it is worth repeating:

The recommended maximum wading depth for a Puma (500 mm) is close to the sills. At 600 mm you have water on the floor in the front of the vehicle. At 750 mm you have water entering the back. At 900 mm you reach the bottom of the air intake, but at this depth some sensitive electronics and battery are under the water. From the external air intake, the ducting rises within the engine compartment with the bottom of the ducting (at its highest point) being close to 1000 mm. We are talking some seriously deep water here. You MAY be able to get through such depths for a shortish distance but you MUST NOT STOP. At that depth you clearly should use some sort of sheet over the front of your vehicle to make a bow wave and to keep the water out of the engine bay. In water crossing, a raised air intake is not a snorkel as some would like to foolishly consider them. However they are useful to keep splashing and small waves, etc. from getting into the air intake. The air ducting is itself not waterproof. Appropriate sealing may be worth while and I have installed a Nugget kit.

If the water is 500 mm or less then you should not need a wading sheet. You can change gear, etc. At depths greater than 600 mm you will start to loose traction because of flotation (until the vehicle fills with water and this this can be moderately quick with a Defender). This is a particularly serious issue if the water you are crossing is fast flowing. I have often read claims "that the water depth was over the bonnet." Most such claims I believe are exaggerations. That is not to say that water may not have surge over the bonnet. I have had that occur at depths closer to 500 mm. It is more likely as your speed increases. The depth at which the bonnet hinges are under the water is about 1250 mm. At this depth about a third of your steering wheel is in the water and your gear stick completely submerged. I have been at such depths in Series diesels but not in a Puma. The seat cushions took ages to dry!

You also need to be mindful that if you cause any damage to your vehicle by crossing water deeper than the recommended maximum you may find that you are not be covered by warranty nor insurance.

There are a few simple rules:
1. Always walk the crossing first to check depth, currents, obstacles, etc
2. Is there a shallower alternative crossing?
3. If in any doubt: don't do it (much better to get home feeling a bit of a coward than to not get home at all)
4. Plan your recovery before you enter into the water (what are the consequences when you do get stuck?)
5. Prepare your vehicle and contents (wading sheet, vulnerable valuables raised, etc).
6. Select an appropriate gear (you do not want to change gear mid crossing)
7. Proceed cautiously but with determination (this is how you should tackle every serious obstacle)
8. After the crossing, dry your brakes and check your vehicle for water ingress.

Cheers
KarlB