Thread: 12v battery and electric specialist

Have you got a camera?


Post up some pic's and some of us may be able to help.

KLR Automotive in Windsor would be able to help.
Regards,

Originally Posted by alien

Have you got a camera?


Post up some pic's and some of us may be able to help.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1437194420.762301.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1437194440.093691.jpg

Some quick pics.
The 2nd battery says only 50amp hrs is this a good battery.
Other battery seems factory.
Redarc not sure what it does.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1437194655.243631.jpg
Close up of second battery specs

The Redarc controller reads the voltage of the cranking battery via the tag that hangs the little labelled box off that cable lug. When the cranking battery rises over around 12.7V the controller connects the second battery by the big relay the controller is hanging off. The red LED says that this state has been achieved. The controller has a black earth wire that completes the controller circuit. There should also be a blue wire on the controller that can be used to connect both batteries for a jump start. It needs a push button switch on the dash taking power from the spare battery.

As for the suitability of the second battery for fridge running, it may be a bit small for anything other than a 3-4 hour roadside stop.

Drivesafe on this forum makes isolators designed to use more of the starting battery in dual battery systems, it might pay to contact him about the isolators he sells.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/drivesafe.html

Originally Posted by bee utey

The Redarc controller reads the voltage of the cranking battery via the tag that hangs the little labelled box off that cable lug. When the cranking battery rises over around 12.7V the controller connects the second battery by the big relay the controller is hanging off. The red LED says that this state has been achieved. The controller has a black earth wire that completes the controller circuit. There should also be a blue wire on the controller that can be used to connect both batteries for a jump start. It needs a push button switch on the dash taking power from the spare battery.

As for the suitability of the second battery for fridge running, it may be a bit small for anything other than a 3-4 hour roadside stop.

Drivesafe on this forum makes isolators designed to use more of the starting battery in dual battery systems, it might pay to contact him about the isolators he sells.

Thanks for the info.
Might start to look into a larger second battery.

The isolator you have is fine. I wouldn't be changing it.

Basically all it does is disconnects/separates your two batteries when stopped so that your fridge doesn't flatten your start.

You should be able to squeeze a 100amp/hr ish battery in. You should get 24hrs out of your 50amp battery. If you drive everyday itinerary be enough. If you fridge has low voltage cutout than your battery will be protected from discharging two low.

50ah is enough for an extended overnight stop if you have no charge going on and for most single vehicle situations where you do all your daily running with the car will keep you going almost indefinitely.

with 80W worth of panel against a single engle its enough for 2 days, just.