Thread: oil filled hubs - who's actually done it?

I have the front set up as option 1 and rear as option 2. I took on water in my rear diff and the consequence was buggered wheel bearings and carrier bearings due to the lack of separation. Thus as a heads up, if you go option 2 be mindful that contaminated oil can and will migrate throughout and you might end up with buggered bearings end to end. Regular oil changes and a check after water crossings is the form of early detection and prevention.

For the rear oiled bearings help prevent spine wear on the drive shafts.

MLD

I have done option 1 and i have never had any problems (i don't do many water crossings though). You may just need to apply silicone to your rubber axle end caps to prevent oil leaking out onto your wheel.

Edward

I use silicone instead of gaskets in most places as well.

Also to stop leaks you will need to change the inner hub seal to an oil seal (RTC3511). The one currently installed might be a grease seal only.

I hate RTV silicon so either use Loctite 515 or 518 (stub axle to axle tube) or paper gaskets (drive flange to hub) and don't have leaks.
The beauty of the paper drive flange to hug gasket is that it all comes apart cleanly, no bloody scraping !

The RTC3511 hub seal is the only one to use, regardless of oil or greased wheel bearings, as it keeps the water out as well as the lube in.
All other versions are inferior.

yep, I've even been knwn to drill and tap grub screws into the drive flange so you can change the oil and check its condition as well as top it up.

It all mix's over time so I don't bother getting fancy,oil all the way except hubs. Pat

Oil from flange to flange. Front and rear.
That way the diff breathers are utilised.

X1

Oil from flange to flange, front and rear.

One other thing I did when I converted the front was replace the swivel bearings and set the correct pre-load and also replaced the wiper seal.