TC plus centre diff lock - when?

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Originally Posted by 85 county

then your sensors are wrong, or you are lieing. you can say what you want but you can not change the laws of physics.

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Nope, not lying. At anything under 200kpa (absolute) I'll often see the same temps on both sensors.
Full boost (255kpa+) labouring, aircon on, I can get it up to 12 degrees above the sensor 1 reading at best.

Sensor 1 is in the pipe coming from the airfilter. The air passing through that point is probably a bit above ambient already due to the heat of the engine bay.

But for all intents and purposes, 100% theoretical accuracy isn't important here. For practical application, the numbers are close enough.

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Originally Posted by AndyG

Neil,
Do you see a need for a EGR gauge, or does the I/C keep it under control. I seemed recall :confused: that the BAS detuned if EGR gets too high.
Apologies if This Q confirms my mechanical ineptitude

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An EGT (exhaust gas temp) gauge can be very helpful. Even with intake air temps kept under control via an efficient intercooler - exhaust gas temps can still get away. (E.g. Long hard climb at full throttle in too high a gear)

With a BAS tune (and presumably others) you can request that the ECU be programmed to always ask for 0% EGR valve opening (exhaust gas recirculation valve). Effectively blanking the EGR valve using the electronics instead of a physical blanking. Totally avoiding the alarms etc that arise if you try to physically blank EGR valve in a TDCi.

A clever aspect of the way a BAS tune handles the closing of the EGR valve is in this:
- apparently the standard tune will open up the EGR valve if it thinks exhaust gas temps (EGT) are high enough to warrant protective action (opening the EGR valve being a way to reduce engine power)
- the BAS tune, while normally asking for the EGR Valve closed all the time, still respects the ECU logic to open EGR in those exceptional circumstances where it is deemed power output needs to be reduced temporarily.

Having an EGT gauge may be helpful to determine why you perhaps experienced a reduced engine power event.

All that said - I don't have, and don't intend to fit, an EGT gauge. Am aware of what might result high exhaust temps, would be avoiding that kind of situation, and wouldn't be wondering what happened if I experienced reduced engine output in such circumstances.

An EGT gauge would be much more helpful in older vehicles with none of the modern ECU electrickery, where manual action will always be needed to detect and control overly high exhaust gas temps.

I reckon it's pretty risky to run chips and remaps without an pyrometer, or at least a ultraguage or similar, there's a reason it's got more power!
A bigger IC won't do bugger all for exhaust temps as egt can run up to as high as 750 deg and a bigger IC drops the intake temp a couple of degrees, so it might drop your egt that couple of degrees so what it's nothing.
IC gives denser air so more fuel can be burnt that's all it does.

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Originally Posted by jackdef90

I reckon it's pretty risky to run chips and remaps without an pyrometer, or at least a ultraguage or similar, there's a reason it's got more power!
A bigger IC won't do bugger all for exhaust temps as egt can run up to as high as 750 deg and a bigger IC drops the intake temp a couple of degrees, so it might drop your egt that couple of degrees so what it's nothing.
IC gives denser air so more fuel can be burnt that's all it does.

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More like 40-50 degrees in my experience Jack. Not an insignificant amount

I'm the usual lone dissenting voice, but i hate the CDL engaged on dirt, prefer an open centre diff (and much prefer an ATB )

Too much understeer for this little black duck with the CDL locked.

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Originally Posted by rick130

I'm the usual lone dissenting voice, but i hate the CDL engaged on dirt, prefer an open centre diff (and much prefer an ATB )

Too much understeer for this little black duck with the CDL locked.

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Black sheep of the family i think the word is mate:p;)

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Originally Posted by rick130

I'm the usual lone dissenting voice, but i hate the CDL engaged on dirt, prefer an open centre diff (and much prefer an ATB )

Too much understeer for this little black duck with the CDL locked.

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So - what does one do when you have road works i.e. road works where you have dry hard packed dirt roads before they seal it up.

When I pick up the 110 this week I will have a stretch of 2k of dirt road to go over - do I need to engage CDL?

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Originally Posted by Col 110

So - what does one do when you have road works i.e. road works where you have dry hard packed dirt roads before they seal it up.

When I pick up the 110 this week I will have a stretch of 2k of dirt road to go over - do I need to engage CDL?

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You dont have to it`s your choice:cool:

Jeez, what a schmoozel!

Lock the TC whenever it's likely you will get significant variation in at least one of your wheel's rotational speed (ie lifting a wheel, some wheels on slippery mud while others are on rock/the road) other than that, leave the TC alone UNLESS you are one of those people who prefer the handling on gravel roads with the TC locked (some do, some don't) others don't. This last point is a handling issue NOT a wear issue.