Col,
Tomorrows's the big day ?, enjoy, i went through exactly what you are going through just a year ago.
The folk on here will give you their last litre of oil, and everyone has an opinion, just like arseholes![]()
If you haven't made plans try and get over to Glenreagh on the 1st weekend in October.
regards
Andrew
By all means get a Defender. If you get a good one, you'll be happy. If you get a bad one, you'll become a philosopher.
apologies to Socrates
Clancy MY15 110 Defender
Clancy's gone to Queensland Rovering, and we don't know where he are
Just work the gears to keep it between 2000-3500 RPM (don't labour the engine, don't over rev it, don't sit for hours at one speed). Use between half to 3/4 throttle ... For the first thou km.
That'll get you pretty brisk progress down the road. Do NOT baby it along really gently! You need to get it on boost to set rings properly.
After that - drive it like you stole it (after its properly warmed up) for the next few thou km and you're set. It'll be near 30k km before its loosened up enough to notice it.
As others have said: you really DONT want to see any wild wheelspin with the centre diff unlocked/open - at any time in the vehicle's entire life.
Remember it's full time (constant) 4wd when the CDL is not locked. Great on roads or high grip (clean rock) type surfaces - right up until ANY one of the 4 road wheels loses traction.
With CDL unlocked (as it MUST be on tarmac etc) Once a single wheel loses grip and spins - ALL drive goes to that wheel, no drive to the other wheels, the loose wheel will spin wildly and the centre diff gets a hiding. Very bad.
Real life example: don't be giving it full noise when U-turning on wet tarmac like a teenager wanting to hang the tail out... This isn't dads old Holden where there are no real consequences to spinning up the inside rear wheel.
Handbrake: It's a separate brake on the driveline. Not acting on the rear wheel brakes like your dads Holden. Because of the constant 4wd it has an effect on all 4 wheels and its effectiveness varies with the position of the CDL and traction available to the wheels - so No handbrakies!
Real life example: Ignore at your own peril handbook and other advice to chock wheels (and maybe locking CDL) before jacking up a wheel to change a tyre.
As you may begin to see - advice to read the manual is VERY GOOD advice. Caring, loving advice. With that - work at really understanding the in/outs of the driveline, what the real life differences are between full time and part time 4x4 drive lines and what are the implications of all that.
A lot of good advice in a recent thread called "defenders for newbies" (or similar).
Neil
(Really shouldn't be a...) Grumpy old fart!
MY2013 2.2l TDCi Dual Cab Ute
Nulla tenaci invia est via
Good work Neil.
Cheers, Billy.
Keeping it simple is complicated.
Neil
(Really shouldn't be a...) Grumpy old fart!
MY2013 2.2l TDCi Dual Cab Ute
Nulla tenaci invia est via
Nice work Neil - a great post with some nice gems in it - much appreciated.
Thanks a lot for this advice (along with the rest of course) - I followed this on the drive home and it was quite a nice ride - I kept moving my speed around and used 4th and 5th to accel back to speed limit just so I didn't stay in sixth at 100 all afternoon - it handled the up and down hills really easily. I am all calm now.......
I came from Dubbo down to Mudgee and on to Lithgow and down Bells Line of Road to home - fun trip.
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