Making a kill switch. What to know?

**Plutei** · 20th September 2015, 06:07 PM

I want to install a kill switch in the 200tdi. Yes, I know, it seems like overkill given the exceptional security system early defenders have

The main thing I'm wondering is what parts to disable and where I should access the wiring.
In terms of parts, most systems/tutorials seem to do the fuel pump, but I don't feel like coming back to a car that's been cranked till the battery has died, and I'm not sure whether cranking the engine without fuel is damaging (Anyone?).
So, I'm thinking of doing the double whammy starter motor and fuel pump. Anyone recommend otherwise? I'm not keen to kill the battery cabling as I would want to retain power to auxiliaries.

**Sitec** · 20th September 2015, 06:14 PM

Just go straight for the Battery Box. Find the earth lead and put a decent isolator switch on it. People don't expect it to be on the earth, and if you use heavier cable the lead can be stronger, allowing the isolator to be located further away from the battery, causing confusion for longer with the would be thief. If you can make/have a lead made that resembles the original, when they find the battery and see nothing wrong they look elsewhere for fancy immobilisers!!

**bee utey** · 20th September 2015, 06:19 PM

The fuel lift pump is mechanical, but there should be a fuel stop solenoid on the injection pump. If it was my truck I'd identify the loom off the ignition switch, and install the immobiliser/kill switch in the start and ignition circuits. A nice big double throw switch from Jaycar would do it, just need to hide it somewhere safe...

**Plutei** · 20th September 2015, 08:27 PM

Originally Posted by Sitec

Just go straight for the Battery Box.

However I'm not keen to remove all power (which this would do, I assume) as I will be using it very often and like my radio presets and may need to power auxiliaries.

Although it would be a good backup for long term parking.

**rangieman** · 20th September 2015, 09:02 PM

Originally Posted by Plutei

However I'm not keen to remove all power (which this would do, I assume) as I will be using it very often and like my radio presets and may need to power auxiliaries.

Although it would be a good backup for long term parking.

Isolate the trip wire for the starter then

**dromader driver** · 21st September 2015, 05:54 AM

hidden shutoff valve in the fuel line works well. don't think my door locks even work.

**Plutei** · 21st September 2015, 05:51 PM

Originally Posted by dromader driver

hidden shutoff valve in the fuel line works well. don't think my door locks even work.

So cranking the engine without fuel supply isn't a problem?

**85 county** · 21st September 2015, 06:17 PM

just leave your TF case in neutral

or in Low so you could run after them and kick the ****** etc

**rgty_kmj** · 22nd September 2015, 06:02 PM

If you do put a switch on the battery earth then put a 20 - 30 amp fuse across the switch so that the clock etc will still work but if someone tries to start the engine then the fuse will blow.

Kerry

Hamilton, NZ

**Plutei** · 22nd September 2015, 11:34 PM

Originally Posted by rgty_kmj

If you do put a switch on the battery earth then put a 20 - 30 amp fuse across the switch so that the clock etc will still work but if someone tries to start the engine then the fuse will blow.

Kerry

Hamilton, NZ

That's very clever.

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