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Thread: Rear recovery point with ridgididge carrier

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by landoman View Post
    Thanks Murry .......that's a lot clearer

    Now suppose I did not want to fit a tow bar ......just tell me again why could I not share the top two holes with the nugget recov point ....is it too thick and upsets the alignment of RD carrier .......

    If no tow bar why could you not slip the nugget under the catch of the RD carrier and use the top two holes as shared just as you would with a tow bar plate ...............

    Appreciate your patience .......us non mechanical types are a bit thick on this stuff .........
    If you don't fit a tow bar that's no problem. The carrier has enough adjustment to allow for the bracket to be mounted straight on a Nugget reco point with no need for any modifications or packing, it's only a couple of mm difference. You only run into problems if you piggy back the bracket and the tow bar and the reco point all together.

    Cheers, Murray
    '88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
    '85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
    '56 SI Ute Cab


  2. #12
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    Great Murry ......now I've got it ........just need to decide if I want a tow bar that could be used as rear recovery point ( even though I would rarely use a tow bar and hopefully rarely use a rear recovery point ) or a rear recovery point only

    I will look at this over the next few weeks and decide ......but I'm pretty sold on the RD carrier so what ever I decide will be based around that ....
    Many thanks for your help

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by steane View Post
    Tow bar with a recovery hitch? That's what I have. Bit expensive if you don't have a tow bar.
    Looking at this option .....a Hayman Reece tow bar .....but not sure what you mean by a recovery hitch ??

    Thought it was unsafe to use a tow bar for recovery ??

    I like the idea of having the tow bar doubling as a recovery point as it seems to fit ok with a Rijidije wheel carrier

  4. #14
    AndyG's Avatar
    AndyG is offline YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
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    Unsafe to use a tow ball, the hitch has a D shackle, there is a pic in an earlier post
    By all means get a Defender. If you get a good one, you'll be happy. If you get a bad one, you'll become a philosopher.
    apologies to Socrates

    Clancy MY15 110 Defender

    Clancy's gone to Queensland Rovering, and we don't know where he are

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyG View Post
    Unsafe to use a tow ball, the hitch has a D shackle, there is a pic in an earlier post
    Ok ...now I got it
    .....remove the towing hitch from the receiver and inset the solid metal recovery hitch ( and D shakel ) with a the pin thought it and ready to recover

    Many thanks

    Ps I take it the Hayman Reece tow bar us well anchored to the chassis ....??

  6. #16
    Babs Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by landoman View Post
    Ok ...now I got it .....remove the towing hitch from the receiver and inset the solid metal recovery hitch ( and D shakel ) with a the pin thought it and ready to recover Many thanks Ps I take it the Hayman Reece tow bar us well anchored to the chassis ....??
    Better off with genuine LR Towbar they zip tie the Hayman Reece on.

    Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Babs View Post
    Better off with genuine LR Towbar they zip tie the Hayman Reece on.

    Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
    Thought it uses the same bolt holes .......so what's the essenrial difference ?

  8. #18
    Babs Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by landoman View Post
    Thought it uses the same bolt holes .......so what's the essenrial difference ?
    No difference, I'm just poking fun.
    You will be good with either.
    If the vehicle is new go with LR that way it's covered under warranty. If not Hayman Reece does the same thing. ✅

    Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

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