Thread: Saving the defender

Originally Posted by REDTD5110

Looking good. The safe tolerance on brake pads is generally 2-3mm.
Are you going to brace the front axle housing for the weight of the isuzu?

I've changed my mind on the 4bd1 for this build now and I'm going to save it for the next one - built off a county chassis with the 4bd1 engine mounts - and yes I will brace the axle on that one.

In a few weeks I hope to start the pull down the 300tdi motor and rebuild it over the next few months.

The steering box got a degrease today and then I separated the ball joint from the arm and pulled it apart - very simple job, it just fell out - probably because the joint was so worn .

Before I install the new joint the steering box and arms etc will get a proper clean and a repaint.

Well its taken a while but the front axle is finally done. It was cleaned, stripped, sandblasted, painted and got all new seals, new discs, new brake hoses and lines - the brake calipers have also been rebuilt with new pistons and seals. Existing bearings were repacked and preload was checked, the diff was checked for run out and backlash and I also checked the end float. All are within tolerance.

The bearings, stub axles and axle shafts are the originals and all a bit tired, but they are serviceable enough so they will go back in for now - once the rebuild is complete and the 130 is back on the road I will progressively replace these parts with new -but there is enough to spend for now on unserviceable missing or broken parts - so anything serviceable can wait a while.

front axle rebuilt.jpgfront axle housing.jpgIMG_1126.jpg

another brick in the wall - long range tank has been cleaned, de-rusted, sanded and painted x4 coats of KBS rust paint.
.tank b4.jpgtank after.jpg

i've had a mollasses bath going for the last month for various corroded bits and pieces - whilst sandblasting is optimal, the costs add up when everything is rusted.

Anyway , the tow hitch has been through the whole process including painting now - its come up really well considering how badly rusted it was.

tow before mollasses.jpgtow after mollassas.jpgtow painted.jpg

radius and trailing arms came out a while ago - the bushes were completely spanked lol. they have now been sandblasted, painted and the new superpro bushes have been put in.

You can see the rear upper bush is the last photo - its totally spanked lol. I've put that arm back into the molasses for another week ( its already been in for 2 and the corrosion is already 90% gone) , then it will get painted and go to the suspension guys to get the new superpro bush pressed in.

anyway, progress, progress, progress...


radius out.jpgradius sandblasted and painted.jpgradius and trail painted new bush 1.jpgtrail and radius new bsuh 2.jpgspanked A frame bush.jpg

Continuing this thread due to the overwhelming response and obvious popularity with site members...the update du jour....today I bbq'ed my extractors.

They went into the rust bath a month ago, got a good wash last week and then I sprayed them with VHT extractor primer and followed with the VHT clear coat - on account of the fact it was on sale for $9 a can.

This paint needs heat to cure and as the 130 wont be started for a few months yet I decided to light up the BBQ and bake them instead.

30 minutes at 100 degrees, cooled for 30, then 30 minutes at 200 degrees.

These will be wrapped before they go on the engine, as I want to get as much heat away from the turbo as possible. the VHT paint was put on to delay any rust forming under the wrap.

The next section of exhaust pipe will also get the same treatment, its currently soaking in the rust bath. I'll cure that on the engine though as its too big to fit in the bbq

rust bath.jpgcleaned not painted.jpgpainted extractors.jpgexhaust.jpg

Nice work. Love the support from all the forum . The amount of replies is staggering .

I reckon you're doing awesome (for what it's worth)🖒. I wouldn't have the patience and don't have the skill.