Page 4 of 18 FirstFirst ... 2345614 ... LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 172

Thread: Saving the defender

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Tamworth
    Posts
    320
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Started on the hail damage on the roof today. Should have it sanded ready for primer by tomorrow.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    West Victoria
    Posts
    797
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Why don't you disassemble the body as well and check for rust between the panels. I am pretty sure the roof un screws as does the firewall and the rear window panel. This is where the rust will be hiding and the firewall is notorious for rusting as there is a hidden panel in the floor area. Not sure exactly where it is but someone who has repaired one will tell you.

    Flush out the chassis with heaps of water before you start painting and make sure you coat the inside of it as well as the outside. POR15 has a silver paint, if you do the chassis in this it will look like a gal chassis :-)

    Good luck and have fun learning about you new truck.
    Neale

    85 Range Rover Ute (Project in pieces)
    89 Range Rover Classic (Black Thunder)
    93 200tdi Disco,(OGRE)
    96 300tdi Disco, DEAD MOTOR
    04 Nissan Patrol with ALL the fruit
    09 Cub Daintree Kamperoo
    12 VE II Commodore Ute DD

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Tamworth
    Posts
    320
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi 'CC' - It would be logical to do a complete body off rebuild, but I made the decision that to strip the body off the chassis, or take down the firewall etc was going to be a bridge too far given the limited time I have.

    I've got this garage for about 6 weeks until the end of january - less than ideal for a truck in this condition, but I've stripped back to the images you can see.

    The firewall does appear to be in ok conditon, with rust at the footwells that I can re weld with the floor and seat box removed.

    I will flush the chassis with water and plan to treat the inside of the rails with a rust preventative - probably penetrol.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Tamworth
    Posts
    320
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Rear crossmember

    So as the rear crossmember was rusted out and the bolts all sheared, or had to be hit with the angle grinder to remove, the whole lot has to be replaced.

    I was able to get a sheet of 3mm folded ( which, somehow I measured 15mm short- good one, genius ) but this close to xmas I could not get it fully fabricated- So i've seen this as a good chance to practice some metal work and welding.

    I've used the old cross member as a template, drilled out and then filed the bolt holes. I've also got the angle grinder and a 1mm disc and cut out all the bits for the welding of the end caps and two main brackets that sit over the chassis.

    Got the wire into my new welder ( with a trip back to bunnings to get a .9 nozzle - as the welder came with two .8's and a 1.0) and the next task will be the welding - hopefully I'll get to that before xmas.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Endeavour Hills, Victoria
    Posts
    674
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Is the rear crossmember different on the SWB from the LWB?
    Nathan.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Tamworth
    Posts
    320
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Pretty sure it is the same Nathan. I probably could have hunted one from a wrecker and also Paddocks sell it as a replacement part - but i wanted to have a crack at it myself.

  7. #37
    cafe latte Guest
    Looking good so far
    Chris

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Tamworth
    Posts
    320
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by cafe latte View Post
    Looking good so far
    Chris
    Cheers Chris,

    good luck on your search too mate.

    Now that i have stripped this down, i've learnt that when I do the next one, I will strip it right back to chassis, sandblast it, galvanise it and do a complete nut and bolt rebuild from the ground up.

    As it stands right now, I'm working in sections across the chassis prepping for the KBS coatings rust and chassis paint - with the cab still on its a slow process - ironic that I don't have the time to do a complete chassis strip.

  9. #39
    cafe latte Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Andy130 View Post
    Cheers Chris,

    good luck on your search too mate.

    Now that i have stripped this down, i've learnt that when I do the next one, I will strip it right back to chassis, sandblast it, galvanise it and do a complete nut and bolt rebuild from the ground up.

    As it stands right now, I'm working in sections across the chassis prepping for the KBS coatings rust and chassis paint - with the cab still on its a slow process - ironic that I don't have the time to do a complete chassis strip.
    Thanks Andy, I will be following this thread with interest as I want to restore mine whatever I get, I just hope it wont need quite as much work as yours
    Have you decided what colour yet? I imagine it wont be stripy
    Chris

  10. #40
    cafe latte Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Andy130 View Post
    Completed 2 hour basic welding course, I am now ready to chop into the chassis , cut out rust and re-weld. what could possibly go wrong?
    Very good indeed after only 2 hours training!!
    Chris

Page 4 of 18 FirstFirst ... 2345614 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!