Yeah I feel for my 300tdi in this Adelaide heat, keeps a steady temp even when it got to 44c for a couple days but been keeping an eye on things
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Yeah I feel for my 300tdi in this Adelaide heat, keeps a steady temp even when it got to 44c for a couple days but been keeping an eye on things
Yep I tick all those boxes, high humidity, dust, heat (33C most of the year), off-road use, no towing as such but have carted heavy loads (750ish KG) from a 4-6hrs highway run then off into difficult jungle tracks.
So for me it's a no-brainer. No more than 10k oil change intervals...
You'll hear people squeal you can't do that, the filter will be blocked, or why use a dirty filter with clean oil, but IME it doesn't matter that much.
A full flow filter only catches big stuff, even the best (Donaldson, Cummins-Fleetguard, Mann-Hummel synthetic media versions) only filter to around 6 micron nominal. (beta2=6, or 50% of 6 micron particles)
Most OE versions with a cellulose media are no where near that efficient.
Even the manufacturers often follow the policy of change the oil but leave the filter.
Nissan used to call for 5,000km OCI's but 10,000km filter changes in the Patrol, even back in the 500PPM sulphur fuel days.
Of course if the filter is only about $10-$15 I'd swap it too. :D
FWIW I swap the filter with the oil in the Tdi, although I use either Donaldson or Fleetguard syn filters that cost a bit over $30 a pop.
Following on from the oil guru(and super fridgie;)),when the TD5 came out,oil changes were 20k,spin on filter was every 60k.
Although it did have the centrifugal filter that was to be done every 20k as well.
I dont change the filter on the D4 during the in between services, oil changes,i don't think it needs to be done.
My personal practice is to do filter with every oil change (10k km). They are not expensive and on the TDCi (Puma) very easy to access and change. Again likely overkill and I wouldn't be the slightest bit upset if ever it were inconvenient and filter change had to be skipped now and then.
As well as all the environmental matters already mentioned (heat, dust, stop-start traffic etc), I forgot to mention that I am running a BAS 170AB tune as well - which gets a workout on the odd occasion. Another factor pointing me to 10k oil services.
Others in here really know their oils at a deep level. I just content myself with seeking oils that at least mention the Ford oil spec that is in the handbook/manual for my TDCi 2.2l non-DPF engine. (That sounds pompous or pedantic - sorry. The spec is different if DPF is fitted)
That spec (my vehicle) is:
5W/30 - WSS-M2C913-B or C
Both these Penrite oils mention that spec:
"HPR5" 5W-40 (full syn)
From the website:
Full synthetic engine oil for use in the latest generation of high performance engines, including many light duty diesel engines, especially those from Europe, as well as LPG engines. Contains Full Zinc and Penrite's Extra Ten technology.
Suitable where SAE 5W-30 or 10W-30 oils are recommended. May also be used in applications requiring ACEA A5/B5 or A1/B1 engine oils.
Suitable for four stroke motorcycles with wet clutches.
Key Specifications: API SN/CF, ACEA A3/B4, MB-Approval 229.5, BMW LL-01, JASO MA1, Ford M2C912-A/913-A/913-B/913-C/913-D
"HPR Diesel 5". 5W-40 (semi-syn)
From the website:
HPR DIESEL 5 exceeds the requirements of API CI-4 PLUS/SL and ACEA A3/B4/E7 as well as many manufacturers' requirements. It can be used where SAE 5W-30, SAE 5W-40 & SAE 10W-30 grade oils were originally recommended by the manufacturer. It is also suitable for use where fuel economy specifications ACEA A1/B1, A5/B5 and Global DLD-2 are specified in the owners handbook.
Key Specifications:
API CI-4 PLUS/SL
ACEA A3/B4/E7
MB 228.3/229.3
VW 502.00/505.00
JASO DH-1
Global DLD-2/DLD-3
Ford M2C153-H/171-C/913-B/913-C. ( <---- the bit I failed to see in an earlier post)
So it looks like either oil would suffice. Let's see what the experts advise in the other (oil colour) thread regarding which may be better.
Thanks for putting in the effort there Neil,
Yeah what I essentially gleaned from the other thread was that ostensibly they both are suitable but the synth is better for pushing out the changes to 15-20km whereas the semi is a good option for 10km changes with lesser workload.
Spose it comes down to what price you can get the 10-20 litre drum for at the time. Anymore than 10km for something I'm planning on keeping for the long haul seems a bit high but with the EGR disabled then I will just go by how it looks I think.
Regards