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Change your hoses and fan clutch every 100,000km if you wish, other than that, they are not a servicable item. They fail, often without warning and we have little control over when or why they go, especially when due to manufacturing quality. You can inspect them as often as you like.
Oil cleanliness, on the other hand, we have a LOT of control over so it would be silly not to pay plenty of attention to 'servicing' it.
Hard to predict an unexpected, catastrophic component failure.
Beery,you said it,rad hoses fail without warning and lead to very expensive repairs or real expensive engine replacement,considering they cost around $100 for the Tdi/Td5/V8 and $50 for a fan hub I shake my head at why they are ignored yet 5000K oil changes are followed religiously by members on this site .Anyway there your vehicles and the money comes from your wallet so what ever blows your hair back. Pat
Well, rather than chiming in with snide remarks, maybe you could've said something along those lines in the first place. A courteous comment, directed to the relevant person/people, rather than talking 'about' them right in front of their face, would be much more helpful.
Replacing hoses and fan hubs at unnecessary intervals exposes you to just as much risk from faulty, poorly made components failing. Seen that happen plenty of times too!
Interesting thread,
I bought an Iveco Daily 4x4 just over 2 years ago, Have now done 80,000 km
Its a twin turbo, 3.0 L common rail diesel by FPT not dissimilar to any other modern 4x4 Diesel engine.
Iveco state 40,000 km between services !! they don't want to see it for first service till 40,000 km :eek:
IMO opinion thats crap, I did a first service at 5000km, then self service every 10,000 km, I noticed the oil went black within the first 20-50km after each service. At 20,000km I had ECU remapped and EGR blanking plate. Now the Oil stays clean right through till 10,000km .
I also changed from LowSaps oil to HPR5 because I removed the DPF, but I firmly believe the oil is staying clean because I removed the EGR and exhaust fumes (soot) is no longer being ingested into the engine, and the clean oil has nothing to do with DPF removal / change of oil spec.
Yeah the EGR removal will make the biggest difference. But deleting the DPF regen cycle when you remove it will also stop oil dilution from the extra diesel used in regen. Unless its one that injects diesel straight in to the DPF of course!
Really don't know how this applies to me or the question I asked. Irrelevant info and rude. WhateverQuote:
Originally Posted by PAT303
I wouldn't have stressed too much over the low SAPs oil, if it was an ACEA E6/E9 oil they are really robust and actually handle soot better than the older spec oils, but if the HPR5 diesel is a fair bit cheaper, you're in front. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by goingbush
Sorry if it was taken that way because that wasn't my intention,I was asked a direct question so gave a direct answer,the thought of not replacing a part because the new one might be faulty is a new way to look at maintenance. PatQuote:
Originally Posted by Beery
Alec,we are on different wave lengths here,no offence intended. PatQuote:
Originally Posted by AlecW
Pat, you are onto something here.Quote:
Originally Posted by PAT303
A few of us non experts regularly comment that it would be wonderful to know those non maintenance specified items that can be expected to fail during a range of time/km, and for a small(ish) cost could be replaced well prior to anticipated failure date.
I for one would be happy to pay for such a list to supplement the official LR documentation, but except for items specifically mentioned (like your post here), don't know what I'm looking for.
Food for thought??