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Thread: 300Tdi Defender - how to fix these things?

  1. #1
    VladTepes's Avatar
    VladTepes is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Subscriber
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    300Tdi Defender - how to fix these things?

    1. Heater/fan not working.


    2. Bonnet vent keeps 'falling closed' The lever isn't sitting in the detents, but comes out to the right (does that make sense?)




    I really don't want to have to remove the dash, if possible, but if I do then the time is now before I fit the mud console.
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


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    Quote Originally Posted by VladTepes View Post
    1. Heater/fan not working.
    Could be the fuse. If the fuse keeps blowing suspect the fan motor attached to the heater matric box under the bonnet.
    You will have to remove the bonnet and the heater matrix box to get to it.
    Good opportunity to clean, replace seals and replace the matrix while you have it out.


    2. Bonnet vent keeps 'falling closed' The lever isn't sitting in the detents, but comes out to the right (does that make sense?) The tension can be adjusted by tightening the nut on the indented lever. Easy to do if you take the mechanism out but can be done from the outside with the flap is fully open. Very fiddly that way though.




    I really don't want to have to remove the dash, if possible, but if I do then the time is now before I fit the mud console.

    Regards,
    Phil B

    Custodian of:
    1974 S3 swb wagon (sold)
    1978 S3 swb canvas
    48 749 '88 4x4 Perentie
    1985 County with 4BD1T

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    If the housing for the fan has filled with mud and the fan motor has seized, it will continue to blow the fuse.

    When I bought mine, enough mud had accumulated because the little duck bill vent at the bottom was clogged.

    I managed to get it going without pulling the whole thing apart by using a lot of WD40 and using a bit of rubber hose on a cordless drill to spin the fan a lot to free it up.

    I suppose it depends how badly seized the motor is. O course your problem might be something quite different.

    1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
    1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.

  4. #4
    VladTepes's Avatar
    VladTepes is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Subscriber
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    Thanks fellas.


    Phil when you say remove the whole mechanism I presume you mean that the dash has to be removed for that.
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


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    No,just the bonnet,there are two PITA bolts that are inside the foot well,remove the floor mat and you'll see the heads,they take a 10mm spanner from memory.The blower assembly in general is a PITA to remove,be patient. Pat

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    VladTepes's Avatar
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    cheers pat - that particular q was regarding the vent thingy.


    So to remove the blower assembly I need to remove bolts in the footwell? I do hope that the air con stuff isn't in the way.......


    I'll have to see if I can find my RAVE manuals.
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by VladTepes View Post
    cheers pat - that particular q was regarding the vent thingy.


    So to remove the blower assembly I need to remove bolts in the footwell? I do hope that the air con stuff isn't in the way.......


    I'll have to see if I can find my RAVE manuals.

    Yep, the evap is in the way Vlad....

    I just pulled the a/c system out to reinsulate the entire heater box assembly when I fitted a new core about 3.5 years ago.
    IIRC it took a while to fix the box up, I think I spread it over a weekend.

    All the internal insulation was perished, the flaps didn't seal when closed, there were air leaks everywhere, etc. etc.

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    [QUOTE=rick130;2484973]Yep, the evap is in the way Vlad....

    I just pulled the a/c system out to reinsulate the entire heater box assembly when I fitted a new core about 3.5 years ago.
    IIRC it took a while to fix the box up, I think I spread it over a weekend.

    All the internal insulation was perished, the flaps didn't seal when closed, there were air leaks everywhere, etc. etc.[/QUOT




    Vlad,


    The bolts on my heater box are screwed into captive nuts on the firewall so that you don't have to remove carpet, air con etc.
    Not sure if yours is the same because mine is a Perentie-it may be an Army thing.


    To remove the windscreen flap mechanism you will have to remove the dash top and plastic fascia panel that covers the flaps. Try adjusting them from the outside first. You will have to take the bonnet off through.


    Regards,
    As others have said PITA job.
    Phil B

    Custodian of:
    1974 S3 swb wagon (sold)
    1978 S3 swb canvas
    48 749 '88 4x4 Perentie
    1985 County with 4BD1T

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