I ordered some "stuff", most of it arrived today.
Results and temperature shots to come.
Thanks Jon,
Ill have a look when the new toy arrives.
Maybe a guard vent with some 75mm ducting dumping fresh air into the deadair space?
Perhaps as you say a quality exhaust wrap, some reflective and foam heat insulation and the exbox may cope okay.
With regards to heat reduction,
The best mod I ever did to my 300 was to install little vents in each door directing flow of air onto your feet.
Wrapping the exhaust and adding extra insulation helped but having a flow of fresh air into the footwells is awesome in 40ish tropical heat with no aircon
Im hoping this flash new tdci with aircon could be a little more comfortable without punching 75mm holes in the door!
Steve
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
I ordered some "stuff", most of it arrived today.
Results and temperature shots to come.
2015 Defender 110
A good option would be a coating of some sort, one of our members is doing a restore and has used Raptor lining for some of his panels (not for heat reduction) if the Raptor lining reduced or reflected heat this would be a good option as it can be rolled on.
Another roll on option would be a ceramic coating I know they use these already in/on mechanical parts and in my line of work (commercial/industrial floors) I will ask my suppliers for some tech data on a roll on ceramic, then there would not be the problem of mud etc sticking under there. You might still have to back it up with some heat protection inside the cab under the Exbox.
I'll make a phone call and get back to you all.
Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
I did a few things today with the exbox install on a 2015 defender.
First of all, I dynamat both the inside and outside of the exbox.
(Theres probably better stuff for heat shield but this should help).
Outside
Inside (You may notice that I raised the electrics another 25mm using some 25mm alu tubing - The sires look too cramped below the fusebox)
Now to work on the exhaust.
This is the problem
and from below
I bought this heat shield stuff from Carbuilders. (prompt delivery can recommend - I bought other stuff too, thats for another thread) Sound Deadener - Car Builders - Sound Deadener Heat Insulation Car heat Shields
I hat to cut a little bit out, so it would go over that bit of metal welded to the pipe, you can see it the picture above. (Yes I used the bottle opener on the scissors)
Heres what it looks like installed
![]()
2015 Defender 110
Ive just spent about $1700 on Dynamat, Dynaliner, Car builders heat sheild and hood liner etc.
I picked my Defender up in Albury today and will start lining it top to bottom next week when I drive back to Cairns.
I'll put some photos up here as well, but will follow closely what you have done around the exhaust. My seat box is almost too hot to keep your hand on.
That being said, the 110 is no where as loud as I was expecting (and Im ex military, so know Perentie very well.
Best wishes all.
Ken
I've got an Exbox in my 90 that houses the usual electrics from under the seat and all the Redarc gear.The latter being the main concern as the Exbox got so hot you could hardly touch it on a long drive.I bought some Heatshield Products from the States.I got the exhaust wrap,Muffler heatshield and another heat reflective,self adhesive product you cut to size for under the Exbox.This was aPITA as you have to undo the Exbox and lift it up as much as possible to fit,so it'd be wise to do it before installation.Temperate is cut down a fair bit, probably not as much as I'd like,although to touch it the change is noticeable.
Karlz
Thanks for the photos and ideas
That heat shield looks a good option.
Are you happy with the hose clamp attachment or is it a little chincy ?
With the clearance seen I can see me tigging a few tabs onto the zorst and installing a stainless shield.
I love your idea of spacing the electrical system off the heat sink
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
The clamp is stainless, its pretty tight. Ive hidden the tabs up, I dont think they will be the 1st contact point. Theres plenty of something else under the defender to get trapped 1st.
I think the product is good, all the bits are stainless except for the shield itself.
But there is something in between the alu of the shield, i.e. its not just a piece of Alu Its sort of sticky. I dont know what it is.
I also bought from Carbuilders a big piece of this shielding. That will go above the muffler, havent worked out the mounting mechanism yet.
2015 Defender 110
Thanks for the ideas,
I have already wrapped the exhaust to the first flange, awesome result.
Thinking, this, Zero Clearance is a premium quality peel and stick heat shield material, under body engine bay heat , would be great in the transmission tunnel, & under ex-box, probably when i pull the transfer case to put the good Ashcroft bits in. Has anyone done this ?
And i might as well do the rear seat area in sound deadener, sound dampening, noise insulation, dynamat, resomat, underbody, sound proofing
Again, thanks for the link
By all means get a Defender. If you get a good one, you'll be happy. If you get a bad one, you'll become a philosopher.
apologies to Socrates
Clancy MY15 110 Defender
Clancy's gone to Queensland Rovering, and we don't know where he are
Didnt see that Zero product otherwise I would have fitted it to the underside of the exbox instead of the Dynamat. I bought some Raptor under panel liner from carbuilders, and they included a couple of pieces of free material as a sample. Now I know what it is, its that Zero stuff. Actually its a big enough piece to stick under the exbox. I'll do it tomorrow.
I also bought some magna shield exhaust tape from carbuilders. Havent installed it yet, has tape made a big difference?
2015 Defender 110
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