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I can see both sides of this one.Quote:
Originally Posted by lucashill
Yes it's a safety issue but their point of view would be that it would have been OK if it hadn't been shut in the door lock therefore happy to replace it at cost.
My '95 Defender has the same problem, shame it hasn't been fixed.......
Colin
The dealer is wrong on all counts,when you fill in the customer satisfaction email mark them down. PatQuote:
Originally Posted by PuckawidgeePete
Go to a different dealer/service agent.Quote:
Originally Posted by gromit
They should be pleased to check something like suspension bolts at your request on a new car. In fact they should check them at first service anyway. They should also be happy to check ALL fluid levels as part of ALL services at no extra charge.
You should insist they replace seatbelt. If it's getting caught in door lock and is frayed, the inertia reel isn't working properly. It is a safety issue for two reasons. My dealer replaced the whole passenger seat belt under warranty because the little button that stops the clip sliding down had fallen out.
My adapter shaft was noisey under warranty, they rebuilt the transfer case, noise still there, they replaced the gearbox, noise still there, they told me it was a spring on the dual mass flywheel, puma's run a single mass i told them, it'll be a spring on the clutch plate or pressure plate, i told them. No, it wont they said. The replaced the clutch assemby, noise gone. Parts changers these days, not mechanics anymore.
Sent from my iPhone using Quasi nuclear phase interlocked
dipthrong retarder technology.
Certainly 99.9% of mt82 rattling at idle hot can be traced to the clutch.
Jc
Hi Pete,Quote:
Originally Posted by PuckawidgeePete
I think I scored the first one for free only because I had emailed the dealer about it and was told it wouldn't cost anything for the check over. When it had been completed, I got a bill for (if I recall correctly) somewhere in the vicinity of $500 or $600 dollars, which I immediately challenged. Fortunately, I was able to produce the email on my phone, and was then (reluctantly) granted the work for free.
My scheduled services for the first three years are complimentary under the purchase agreement I made when buying the vehicle, and I haven't had any issue with those.
Mine is frayed not by the door but rubbing on the seat. They are replacing it no questions.
My own personal recommendation on servicing....
Every 10,000km change oil, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter.
First 30,000km change both diff fluids, they will be very dirty and metal loaded (check transfer case and gearbox).
Every 50,000km (I'm almost inclined to reduce this) change all drive line fluids.
I look after a number of Defender TDCi (puma) models and have serviced them every 10,000km since brand new with the aim to get a long trouble free life for their owners.
what I do find offensive...
*Checking a Defender air filter at 20,000km (just after a "scheduled" service) and finding the air filter black (check and replace as necessary????).
*Saying the diffs dont need to be changed until 80,000km.
*The complete arrogance (or the lack of giving a dam) in saying X item doesnt need changing until X kms.
*The service schedule is now 35,000km.
I really dont know why it should annoy me so much that the more new Land Rover models I service the more I find vehicles that are poorly maintained from "scheduled servicing"
https://www.facebook.com/aztech4x4/p...type=3&theater
Regards
Daz
Totally totally concurr.
I have been doing 40k driveline services and main gbox at 60kintervals on puma Defenders and if towing or working hard the transfer case gets full synthetic 75 90 every 20k... �� and yes the 80k diff interval is just bizarre...was that change the diff OIL or change the DIFF.... ��
Jc
I've put mine in for service at 10,000 km intervals and will continue to do so.