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Thread: Maxidrive/HiTuff rear axle query

  1. #1
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    Maxidrive/HiTuff rear axle query

    Hi,

    In 2011 I had upgraded Maxi/HiTuff axles fitted to the rear of my 2004 TD5 110 Defender, & also had the bearings converted to oil lube.

    I may have to do the rear brake discs soon, & I wanted to check the bearings so that I know what sort of adjustment they have. There is a possiblilty they may have been changed from stake/spacer to 2 nut/locktab adjustment.

    In order to have a look, I have been trying to remove the drive flange end caps, which seem to be extraordinarily tight. (!)

    Are Maxi/HiTuff like the Ashcroft/Bearmach type drive flanges, or are the flanges integral with the axle shaft. I did see a reference to the HiTuff axles being a tight interference fit with the flanges, so that undoing the 5 drive flange bolts will allow the flange and axle to be withdrawn - like the Defender 90, thus doing away with the circlip.

    Is this the case with the 110? I thought I should check before using sterner methods to undo the end caps. They are REALLY tight!!!

    Any info would be appreciated.

    Cheers,

    Lionel

  2. #2
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    Lionel.
    they are screw on caps so bend your back mate.

    "so that undoing the 5 drive flange bolts will allow the flange and axle to be withdrawn - like the Defender 90, thus doing away with the circlip."

    You can do that but if you have overfilled the diff as per fitting instructions oil will run out so be prepared to catch it and it is a bugger to clean up the faces for resealing.
    I use loctite pipe sealant for the gasket and to seal the end cap, works a treat never any leaks and that end cap only need to be tweaked.
    I can undo mine with a big pair of mutigrips.
    And they have never come loose.

    Cheer,
    Paul.
    Paul.

    77 series3 (sold)
    95 300Tdi Ute (sold)
    2003 XTREME Td5

    I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken.

  3. #3
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    For the rear assemblies Barry makes the half-shaft splines and drive flanges a press on fit. This removes movement from the interface and reduces wear.

    Front flanges are a slip on fit.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  4. #4
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    Thanks guys for the replies.

    Harro, your point taken about withdrawing the axle & flange together, though if, as Lotz-A-Landies explains, the flanges & axles are a press fit, it might be easier to not separate them, & put up with the mess.

    The axle has been converted to oil lube, so the axle shaft seal & the stub axle seal will have been removed, so there is no need to worry about damaging seals when withdrawing/replacing the axles/flanges as a unit.

    The hub seal is now a double lipped type (3501), which I'll probably need to renew on reassembly, of course.

    Hoping this sounds OK.

    Cheers,

    Lionel

  5. #5
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    Umm, correct me if I'm wrong but you will not be able to see which type of nuts are fitted by just removing the drive flange nut.......I think you have no choice to pull the flange and axle together.

    Or

    Buy four nuts, washers, and spacers....minor cost on top of rotors, pads, seals etc

  6. #6
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    To overfill with diff oil jack up one side.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  7. #7
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    Yeah I can't imagine you'll see anything from removing the end cap. Remove the flange and possibly axle along with it to see the bearing setup. Expect oil to dribble out. The flange might require some effort to break away from the hub. Tap with a hammer or use something to drive them apart. I hit a screwdriver in between the flange and hub although I probably make small marks in doing so. (Not a problem on my old vehicles!)
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

  8. #8
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    The big nut on mine is always tight to undo due to the fine thread .
    I put sealant in the flat face of the nut only not on the thread.
    To remove the flange, i leave 2 of the flange bolts in about 1/2way and leave the big nut on by a few threads. Take a large screwdriver and pry from the drive flange bolts to the underside of the big nut.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  9. #9
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    The easiest way to remove the flange from the hub is as thus.
    Jack up only one wheel
    leave wheel on hub for now
    remove centre nut and split ring
    remove 5 drive flange bolts
    now simply spin the big black thing
    axle will hold flange whilst hub turns away from it
    no dings and cuts on the hub

    then rattle off the wheel and carry on.

    the central nut can get BFT 50mm socket with big breaker bar or big rattle gun sHOULD MAKE THEM TAL:K

    Steve
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  10. #10
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    Thanks to all who replied to this thread.

    A good few useful tips on rear hubs, flanges etc. I have done quite a bit of work on the front axle (swivel bearings etc.), but have not had to touch the rear yet.

    It is always good to get advice from those who have done the jobs in question.

    Cheers,

    Lionel

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