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Thread: 130 2" lift and remote resevoir shocks

  1. #1
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    130 2" lift and remote resevoir shocks

    I'm looking at a getting a 2" lift for a touring orientated 130 defender with steel tray and canopy (eventually slide on slide off).

    I'm thinking Retained flexy coils and remote reservoir shocks to handle the corregations up here in the NT , I'm considering extended shock towers and rear shock mounts to fit longer shocks as apposed to extended bump stops ( would they limit up travel compared to said idea?) I've already got double cranked trailing arms (old ones were flogged and I figured I'm lifting the car this year )

    So if any one has advise or experience, opinions etc please I'm all ears ,cheers squid

  2. #2
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    image-2032503553.jpg

    This is the current set up , I'll eventually get weights of front and rear axles to better aid in spring rates etc

  3. #3
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  4. #4
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    I went the gwyn Lewis route which made sense for a 110. If your loading Ng up touring maybe consider airbags for the rear, a few have done that cal415 did that to his 130 I think.
    Your right in wanting to lift the mounts as just putting in 2 in lifted springs limits your drop. The gwyn Lewis kit suggests 12in travel shocks like Arb 60070L which are a pin to pin from the front of a 3 in lifted patrol kit. They are the normal ones, for a remote res Shock I'm not sure of the codes but other would know billies or Arb codes.

  5. #5
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    Cheers I'll look into the glen Lewis kits I've heard of using patrol and 90 series shocks would you have to revalue them or are their rates near the same as a defender ?

  6. #6
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    *80 series shocks

  7. #7
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    Spring height is not relevant to articulation or travel.

    How long a shock are you wanting to run?

    From memory the 60070L ome shocks are 11 inch travel not 12.

    If you want to go flexi coils and retain the coils try to stay away from tapered ground progressive coils. Unless there is only an inch or so gap between the spring seat and the top of the coil. Extending a tapered coil well past its free length will eventually snap the coil when retained.

    Another option for remote red shocks are Amada extremes which I ran in my 130 or Profenders. The Profenders are also available in a dampner adjustable version.

  8. #8
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    I'm still looking into the taller towers etc but in terms of shock length for the front it would be what ever the longest shock I can fit that is of good quality and of reasonable price. Probably a 12 inch I need to research more into it as I've never lifted a defender before and all the forum threads on different options makes it pretty hard to decide

  9. #9
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    [FONT=""][COLOR=""][SIZE=""]I run 10inch short body Bilstein 7100 remote res shocks in my 110... they are a great shock, home rebuildable, relatively cheap and don't need too much rangling to fit. They are eye-eye however. I used Disco2 towers up front, RTE mounts at the rear and converted the shocks to pin mounts on the bottom. The details and part numbers are in my build linked below. I converted the tops from rose joint to bushing to save on maintenance.

    IMO they are the best overall handling shock. Others are more flexible (ie you get more flex), cheaper or easier to fit.. but my use case was 80-100km hard dirt and corrugations all day and they do it with ease. In these conditions they really come into their own and the handling remains precise and predictable.

    They are not a bolt in solution, though... but I doubt there is for RR.[/SIZE][/COLOR][/FONT]
    Hercules: 1986 110 Isuzu 3.9 (4BD1-T)
    Brutus: 1969 109 ExMil 2a FFT (loved and lost)

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squids130 View Post
    Cheers I'll look into the glen Lewis kits I've heard of using patrol and 90 series shocks would you have to revalue them or are their rates near the same as a defender ?
    Both patrol and 80 series shocks are firmer valved than a defender factory valving.

    I run 80 series +4" (11.5" travel) shocks front and rear in a 130. I find them suitably valved for my set up (winch bar and winch), steel tray on the rear. In a 110 the shocks would be too firmly valved (in the rear). I note you have an alloy tray so you might be closer to a 110 than my set up.

    Good thing about a longer shock is the extra oil and fade resistance from heat. Can get the same with a big bore shock too.

    I use Gwyn Lewis mounts front and rear. Lots of travel and to make it work in harmony you will need Flexi coils to avoid dislocation. If you are not going to fit Flexi coils then consider a shorter shock of about 10" travel. You will get 90% of the travel without the chewed out bushes and easier to find coils that don't dislocate.

    MLD

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