Thread: Advice - Pre-purchase inspection opinions - 1996 110

If it is leaking oil then it should not have passed the safety. I bought a car when I first arrived here in Aus, my friend noticed the sump was leaking oil. I took the car to the garage who did the safety and they fixed the leak to make me go away.
Chris

I would be telling the owner so .
Or buy it have a safety inspection done and then return to who ever did the first inspection and ask them to fix it as it is not safe or you will report them and they get fined lose their licence and still have to fix your car at no cost to you

Originally Posted by rangieman

I would be telling the owner so .
Or buy it have a safety inspection done and then return to who ever did the first inspection and ask them to fix it as it is not safe or you will report them and they get fined lose their licence and still have to fix your car at no cost to you

I agree the garage who did the dodgy inspection will be very keen to convince you not to report them.
Chris

But otherwise sounds pretty good to me, won't guess at repairs. Al doable with a few beers

I'll play devil's advocate.

$11k is what I call a cheap 300Tdi Defender and it sounds like it's been used and not terribly well maintained to me, hence the easy to fix engine leaks, fubar ball joints and leaking swivels.

With 270k kms on it, it will soon be needing big end bearings.

The gearbox can only leak from a few spots usually a box out job to fix.

TC if it's leaking from the input seal is a box out job to fix.

If you are pulling both boxes out it's probably sensible to consider a rebuild with 270k on the clock and a new clutch, slave, master, fork etc.

Water pump housing will be the P-gasket. Cheap fix but involves a bit of time.

Possible swivel hub rebuilds on the cards (you have to take them off to do the seals). CVs aren't badly priced so you do those at the same time.

Rear diff will be a Salisbury. Changing the pinion seal should be easy but can potentially be difficult and if not done correctly can get expensive.

I'd be taking a keen interest in what the report showed regarding rust.

I'd also want to know when the head / head gasket was last done and the radiator rodded.

Same with timing belt.

All 300Tdi issues that will cost you, because if you don't know when they were done, or they were done a long time ago, they'll need to be done again.

I'd expect to spend quite a lot of money on an $11k Defender to return it to top condition and not have to worry about it letting you down. But it depends what your plans/expectations/reasons for buying one are.

Here is a buyer's guide that covers the 300Tdi - The Ultimate Land Rover Defender Buyers Guide | Loaded 4X4

Originally Posted by steane

I'll play devil's advocate.

$11k is what I call a cheap 300Tdi Defender and it sounds like it's been used and not terribly well maintained to me, hence the easy to fix engine leaks, fubar ball joints and leaking swivels.

With 270k kms on it, it will soon be needing big end bearings.

The gearbox can only leak from a few spots usually a box out job to fix.

TC if it's leaking from the input seal is a box out job to fix.

If you are pulling both boxes out it's probably sensible to consider a rebuild with 270k on the clock and a new clutch, slave, master, fork etc.

Water pump housing will be the P-gasket. Cheap fix but involves a bit of time.

Possible swivel hub rebuilds on the cards (you have to take them off to do the seals). CVs aren't badly priced so you do those at the same time.

Rear diff will be a Salisbury. Changing the pinion seal should be easy but can potentially be difficult and if not done correctly can get expensive.

I'd be taking a keen interest in what the report showed regarding rust.

I'd also want to know when the head / head gasket was last done and the radiator rodded.

Same with timing belt.

All 300Tdi issues that will cost you, because if you don't know when they were done, or they were done a long time ago, they'll need to be done again.

I'd expect to spend quite a lot of money on an $11k Defender to return it to top condition and not have to worry about it letting you down. But it depends what your plans/expectations/reasons for buying one are.

Here is a buyer's guide that covers the 300Tdi - The Ultimate Land Rover Defender Buyers Guide | Loaded 4X4

Thanks so much this is very sound advice appreciate the detailed response.

Originally Posted by Walshy25

Hi All,



The key items:

- Waterpump housing is leaking at block
- Ball swivels seals leaking oil
- Tie rod end boots split
- Front drive shaft uni joints worn
- A frame ball joint boot split

- Oil leaks (Transfer case and gear box, valve cover and breather, rear diff pinion seal) I presume these are normal Landy leaks?

Oil leaks aside all of those can be fixed in a weekend on your drive. Online order the wp gasket, some tie rod ends, a couple of uj's and an A frame ball joint already pressed in housing. Check out some you tube walk throughs, fit it all, then get a wheel alignment.

As for oil leaks they may just be sweating, degrease and hose down would have got it through a roadworthy. You could deal with any of those in your own time if its not leaving oil on the ground between washes. Rocker cover and breather is a 10 minute job. Swivel seals may clear up if you use one shot grease instead of ep 90 although not too much work to slip on some new seals (if balls pitted, fix won't last long)


Timing belt is a must if no history. Check the engine is not breathing heavy out the oil cap, no plumes of exhaust smoke and no knock. If all looks good and drives well, likely the TDI will chug on for a good while yet.

If you can negotiate down from 11g and are ready to throw spanners at it when needs be you might be happy living with it.

Rust, rust, rust - bottom of all doors, rear door, even along the window sills. Front footwells - pull out all the mats - passenger side especially. Open front vents and check the mesh inside. Everything the other guys said as well.
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