Thread: Light wiring

Don't go by colour, go by what's hot, and what's not.

Check which cores show voltage when the high beams are on.
12V will go to the red, 0V will go to the black, and the other two are most likely unused.

Originally Posted by lump_a_charcoal

Don't go by colour, go by what's hot, and what's not.

Check which cores show voltage when the high beams are on.
12V will go to the red, 0V will go to the black, and the other two are most likely unused.

Thanks ...what does ov mean

Zero volts.

Actually, do your new lights have external LEDs, like in a ring around the lense or anything?

Check if he's added position lights by probing the green with Parkers on and off..

On LightFarce the wiring is:
Red - Positive
Black - 0v (Negative)
Yellow - Positive from Parker lamp or DRL controller
Blue - 0v for Parker circuit or DRL (electrician may have used a common In his 3 wire set up

Auto electricians, electronics techies and regular sparkies (Those who wire houses, etc) all have different terms for the essentially the same things. But if you want to be specific, then they are different.

But, in general:

In the world of DC = Direct Current = auto electrics:


12V or 12Volts equals Battery positive. Normally red for accessory use.

0V or zero volts equals Battery negative, chassis, or ground. Normally black.

But remember that the OEM wiring colours in the vehicle loom are different. Refer to the supplied manual, or look your make/model up.

FYI: And any trailer/caravan 5 or 7 core loom has different colours again. Code found on most plug/socket packaging, or on the net.

Also, your extra wire in the aftermarket trio may not be actually wired in. Have a look around your battery to see if you can find that end of the new wiring. Could be for later on, as a possible sense wire or a possible fog light feed. Its size will determine possibilities.