Thread: CSW Gullwing into 2015 Puma Defender

Originally Posted by Robmacca

Cheers for that... what year is your Defender?


Also, can u remove the Glass from the frame (ie: remove the felt and middle support) and still leave the frame within the car?

Mines a 2000 era

I believe that what others have done, I haven’t had a close look.

As mentioned earlier, there is quite a lead time on the CSW Gullwings, I’m waiting on 10 of them, some ordered in July.
I was talking to Luke at CSW yesterday, he’s a great guy to deal with, but unfortunately they’re just so busy that it pushes the lead time out.
I’ve had them in my County for several years, no leaks or any issues at all for that matter. I’m not saying this because I supply them, they are good value.

From what I’ve seen online recently, it looks like the Frontrunner Gullwings have just gone up significantly in price to $1080 .
They are an awesome product, but that’s quite a rise from $815.

Couldn’t help having a bit of a chuckle at this on the Frontrunner Gullwing page

Originally Posted by rijidij

Couldn’t help having a bit of a chuckle at this on the Frontrunner Gullwing page

Its an accurate statement, just doesn't say how many minutes haha. For me it took a weekend...so lets say about 1000 odd

Its the 'No modifications required' that's a bit of a fib...you have to file down the panel in the bottom corners and all the tabs to get it to fit.

A couple of things I learnt along the way for those wanting to install the front runner gullwings:

- Wear hearing protection even if you're using a file, its surprisingly loud.
- Only use a small bead of sikaflex, Unlike the factory windows with the large amount of rubber and sealant the FR brackets squeeze the window right against the panel leaving almost no gap to fill. I spent a lot of energy cleaning up excess sikaflex on my first one cause I overestimated the bead I would need
- I found that filing and all the back and forth getting the window out left the bottom of the window panel a bit loose and rattly. I ran a bead of sikaflex along the bottom of the panel between it and the reinforcement behind. It actually stopped a 'factory fitted' rattle!
-I used a hose to test watertightness after it had cured. This is a good idea to do before you refit the interior trim panels. Despite my best efforts there were a couple leaks due to a bolt I must have overlooked when torqueing up, and where the bead wasn't quite enough (even though it still squeezed out like vegemite through a ryvita). I didnt think about the water interacting with the locks and after coming back 2 days later to open them the locks had already started to bind up due to corrosion. I suggest spraying some WD40 or silicone lube spray into the locks to keep them moving freely, mine have worked perfectly ever since.