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Thread: YALT: Yet Another Locker Thread

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by FV1601 View Post
    I up graded the front crown/pinion for the TJM locker. But that was because the complete diff was disintegrating due to incompetence. Still seething over that one, but on the bright side the front end shimmy is gone.


    Question for the brains trust Re. Lockers vs Maxi drives/self locking diffs.
    The brakes on my TDCI 130 are woeful (No ABS, not sure if that makes a difference) and on steep downhill tracks with severe rutting or steps as soon as one of the wheels lost weight/unloaded any braking effort went straight to that wheel causing some interesting moments and an irate navigator. The rear diff lock has certainly made a huge improvement in this regard: does this trick work with maxi-drives etc?


    After some testing over the last two weeks I have found that the lockers have turned very interesting tracks into boring ones. Just what the navigator ordered...
    Rich.

    Maxi-Drive are full, selectable lockers. They function identically to an Ashcroft, ARB, TJM or Macnamara locker. The only difference is the design, not the function.

    Are you perchance talking about Detroit Soflockers-which are automatic lockers; or Ashcroft ATB & Detroit Tru-Track torque biasing diffs?

  2. #22
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    Stewie110. Good point, my local independent Land Rover expert sourced the crown wheel and pinion for me (Thanks Ivan), so not sure. My feeling is that it was LR. He certainly never raised the subject of needing anything more robust front or rear, and his judgement I trust.


    Isuzutoo-eh. Sorry 'bout that, I was confusing Maxi drives with Detroit style lockers, temporary brain failure.
    Can I rephrase the question, Full diff Lockers vs Ashcroft ATB & Detroit Tru-Track torque biasing diffs as a downhill braking aid?
    Rich.

  3. #23
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    A full locker won't allow either wheel on the axle to speed up without the other, so yes it negates most of the lurching.
    An ATB diff will allow different wheel speeds so won't eliminate lurching, but it definitely does soften any and thus increases control, in my experience. I fitted an ATB in the front before I put a Detroit in the back.

  4. #24
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    D1 auto, with Detroit Locker rear, and Detroit Tru-track front. Trouble free traction when and where you need it. No external switches, hoses, etc.
    May have slightly (<5%) more tyre wear, but well worth it.
    Also the peace of mind that if I suffered an injury in the bush, the missus can drive out without needing any knowledge of when or where to use/not use lockers.
    Would I put them in another vehicle, for the same type of use? Most definitely!
    -----
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  5. #25
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    My 2c:
    I have 1xMD locker and 2x ARB lockers across 2 vehicles.

    The MD locker has always worked flawlessly, if a bit slow.
    Mechanically the ARBs have been fine as well. The only issues I have had have been due to the solenoids clogging up with dirt/mud (I mounted them too low in hindsight). I will eventually convert them to 100% pneumatic actuation.

    Jacmac/TJM is still the best design.

    If I was ever buying a rover locker again it would probably be Ashcroft

    p.s. ...My tractor has a mechanical difflock. I like the simplicity.

  6. #26
    stewie110 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post
    My 2c:
    I have 1xMD locker and 2x ARB lockers across 2 vehicles.

    The MD locker has always worked flawlessly, if a bit slow.
    Mechanically the ARBs have been fine as well. The only issues I have had have been due to the solenoids clogging up with dirt/mud (I mounted them too low in hindsight). I will eventually convert them to 100% pneumatic actuation.

    Jacmac/TJM is still the best design.

    If I was ever buying a rover locker again it would probably be Ashcroft

    p.s. ...My tractor has a mechanical difflock. I like the simplicity.
    Aren't most diff locks mechanical? Or do you mean you have a lever or similar to engage the lock? (just trying to understand)

  7. #27
    Join Date
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    Most tractors have a pedal you stand on to lock the diff as required...

    Regards,
    Tote
    Go home, your igloo is on fire....
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  8. #28
    stewie110 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Tote View Post
    Most tractors have a pedal you stand on to lock the diff as required...

    Regards,
    Tote
    I was not aware thanks for the info.

  9. #29
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    Mechanical Diff lock: at the risk of going off topic, those of us with long enough memories will remember the Jack Macnamara mechanical locker for the Series Land Rovers (and early Rangie I think), simple and so very strong. A modified rear drive flange allowed a heavier spring loaded axle to be kept in the normal position with a drawbolt, when this was removed the axle would be forced into the modified (splined) diff centre, usually just as you moved off, and with a very satisfying thunk. If the day was interesting, the locker would be engaged with the Hubs, end of day, hubs to free, and out with the spanner and withdraw the axle. The steering always felt so light on the way home!
    Reminiscence over, sorry 'bout that.
    Rich.

  10. #30
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    I also drive a Unimog, I know all about the pros and cons lockers and when and where to use them, I modified my Unimog to be able to independently control the front and rear diff locks. . The idea of "weighing up the situation" when you approach each dune, puddle or washout is not really practical if you are doing any long distance touring, fine for a "weekend warrior" on a power line track but not on the Canning Stock Route. You can't drive up each dune with the diff locks on, not if you want to turn. In my Mog I can switch the lockers on or off on the move with switch on the dash, but would prefer auto lockers any day.

    My D1 had Tru tracs front and rear, and they worked fantastically. When I got my 110, I fitted the ATBs, having a fully automatic limited slip diff means you don't get stuck in scenarios when you need more all four wheels for traction, scenarios where the traction control would be cutting in on a standard car reducing power needed to get up the dune.


    Quote Originally Posted by rangieman View Post
    The whole idea with manual locker`s is you weigh up the situation ahead .
    Ill look at something as im driving up to it and if needed i`ll stop get out and survey the job ahead if needed .
    But honestly real drivers will just engage locker or lockers before attempting anything to minimize track damage or car damage
    No need to rip a track up then engage your locker that is what nissota driver`s do
    I prefer the air locker`s as they suit my need with a built compressor and the choice of engagement when needed and when i want them.

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