Don't think they will,how bout these http://www.expeditioncentre.com.au/o...2-onwards.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by digger
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Don't think they will,how bout these http://www.expeditioncentre.com.au/o...2-onwards.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by digger
Toyota parts in a land rover? :oQuote:
Originally Posted by digger
The carling switched I am after are probably the most universal, have the greatest selection of removable switch front panels, and have the largest range of back end circuits (SPST, SPDT, DPDT, momentary operation etc). So there is forward compatability there. OE offerings may be limited, so not my first choice.
My main question is how people have mounted panels on the sides of the puma dash. If aligned with the top edge, the alignment is out on the LHS. Likewise stacking multiple panels on there will make them all seem out of alignment. Lining them up with the LHS will put alignment out on the top. It's a question of neatness not the hardware.
As per my pic, line the top switches up with the top edge of the dash.
Then, align lower ones horizontally and vertically with the top switches.
Anything else would look craptastic.
I'm not 100% convinced on the craptastic comment. I've just sat in the car for an hour mapping out some ideas and seeing how they look. I'm not OC but some days I think im pretty ****ing close ;). I'm mainly ****ting bricks as I don't want to mess up a cut in a 40K car. Especially one that I'll have to stare at whenever I'm behind the wheel.
The panel is an odd shaped bit of gear.
If you are running a 1x3 bay of switches, it will look OK in any orientation- aligned with the vertical edge or the horizontal edge. Where things start to go AWOL is when you want to stack 2 1x3 panels. I'm not sure if I'll ever go this way, or just get one of the panels that sits up high on the dash if I require any other gauge slots or switch spaces.
Anyway, when you have 2 panels in the dash, they need to be aligned with the same thing- either both aligned with the vertical OR horizontal edge.
The other issue is when you sit in the driver's seat, you have an odd perspective of the layout. I think it's best to look at this from the centre rear of the vehicle.
Here is a pic of the switch panel locations aligned with the vertical edge
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1472888236
Here is a pic of the switch panel locations aligned with the horizontal edge
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1472888236
The bottom 1x3 switch panel will need to align with the bottom edge of the top panel. This in turn causes the sawtooth misalignment effect on the vertical edge (which I think looks craptacular). This is basically an offset of about 2-3mm due to the curvature of the edge. It's not much, but from the rear perspective, it stands out a lot.
Here's something just to prove a point- the top panel is aligned with the horizontal edge, the bottom with the vertical edge.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1472888236
Here is an install of one of the double DIN stereo kits, and the switch relocation panel (also aligned with the vertical edge)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...16/09/1071.jpg
(Pic courtesy of landrovertuning.com.au)
And from a design point of view:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...16/09/1072.jpg
There is a definite orientation of the other switches with the vertical edge.
Looks like you've answered your own question Mitch. ;)
Line it/them up with the vertical edge.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lump_a_charcoal
Aligning to the top (tapered) edge makes all switches look like they're "on the ****"...
The more that are stacked the worse it gets - like a Leaning tower of Carling.
I don't think it turned out bad.
Yeah, it will look dicky no matter which way you look at it, but as mentioned it's only an issue when stacking multiple banks of switches.
In the end I skewed towards aligning with the vertical edge, and it turned out OK.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...0&d=1472977358
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1472977454
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...2&d=1472977454
Stupid question Mitch but I see four blank factory switches
Why not use these from rimmer
YUF500150LNF
OE*SWITCH ASSY 7.67 quid I bought three and delivery only came to 4.40 quid so for
So for just over $50 Aus delivered I have three factory switches that are DPDT ?
Cover plates can be fiddled with easily to display what you need?
Steve
No such thing as a stupid question.
I've got other plans for those switches. If I ever get E lockers, they will use a centre dash switch position. Likewise any external camp lighting etc will use a spot there. I am aware of the OE style options out there, but the carling style is very adaptable and almost universal. It is aligned with what I am currently using on the ex Box, and I can also use that space for blanking plugs like I have in there now, to USB charging ports. Cost wise, (non genuine) carling switches can be had very cheaply. The genuine switches can be pinned in a huge combination of ways and styles
Having the switches where they are makes them close at hand to dip the spotties / light bar when traffic approaches, as the hand is usually on the high beam / blinker stalk. My previous switches meant I'd need to use my right hand to push two different buttons, then use the left hand to flick off the high beam stalk. Whether my new options is lazy or smart, you decide!
All fair points Mitch
Each to their own
I think if I didn't want to just use factory switches Id go with a membrane panel mount ( for example Membrane & Touch Panels : LEDADVANTAGE - Sydney Suppliers of Marine Accessories & Quality LED Light Solutions
) - with 1m of cable between the membrane and the switch box you could almost get to the X-box for connectivity of components - I hate the rats nest that comes from the back of switch panels!!!
Just ideas