Reply With QuoteAn out of true rotor will knock back a pad making it a 2 pump proposition.
A wheel bearing can show the same symptoms...
Wizard
Hi all
I have a brake problem that I would have thought would be normally easy to sort.
I have to pump the pedal twice to get good brakes. The pedal does not go to the floor on the first pump but is not by any means solid.
I am not losing any fluid, they are bled, good pads, good rotors and new master 25,000 k's ago.
My main questions are, can the master be faulty without leaking, would a faulty calliper act like this?
Thanks in advance.
98 Defender 110 tdi Boomer
An out of true rotor will knock back a pad making it a 2 pump proposition.
A wheel bearing can show the same symptoms...
Wizard
Originally Posted by Tombie
No vibration but some grabbing as coming to a stop, so out of true rotor sounds up there, great thanks.
98 Defender 110 tdi Boomer
YarnMaster
SupporterFlexing in the vacuum diaphragm booster which only bleeds off vacuum with pressure can give this symptom.
Check the booster housing with someone laying into the pedal look for a crack opening up adjacent the master cylinder bolts as pedal pressure applied
The booster housings are **** ... Few different options to beef them but at worst a replacement not crazy expensive
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
Master
Wheel bearings would be my guess. As Tombie has said the wheel/hub/disc wobbles and knocks the pads into the calipers which then requires two pumps to get the pedal feel right.
There should be no play in the bearings. I check mine before each trip and usually have to adjust one or more of them and they are all relatively new on new stubs.
The old rear wheel bearings were terrible and a few rough roads would have the brake pedal fading as the bearings loosened up.
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