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Thread: Vibration and clicking noise

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Vibration and clicking noise

    I got 255/85r16s put on my puma a couple of months back now, and have been struggling to diagnose a vibration above 80 km/h ever since. So the symptoms are a clicking noise which sounds like it's coming from the rear, and at the same time, steering wheel vibration.

    Ive had the tyres on both factory alloys and steel rims with similar results. I've removed almost everything from the back to make sure the clicking wasn't something rattling around. I've taken it to an independent land rover mob who re-balanced the tyres and installed a bilstein steering damper. Still no good. I'm thinking its either a tyre out of round (although the Indy said they were "pretty much ok for such a tall tyre), a prop shaft issue, or maybe wheel bearings. Any suggestions?


    Sent from my E5823 using AULRO mobile app

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Prop shaft Uni joints?
    Check them all for play.
    Paul.

    77 series3 (sold)
    95 300Tdi Ute (sold)
    2003 XTREME Td5

    I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by harro View Post
    Prop shaft Uni joints?
    Check them all for play.
    ditto

    put the transfer case in neutral and chock the wheels, then get under the car a feel for play at all the uni joints. You may not get 'wobble' if it's early failure, but you will feel some sideways play. They deteriorate exponentially.

  4. #4
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    Ok ill have a look. So should I have it in gear, parkbrake off and transfer case in neutral?

    Sent from my E5823 using AULRO mobile app

  5. #5
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    gearbox doesnt matter when transfer is in neutral for this test. make sure chocks are fully home with handbrake off. chock the wheel diagonally from the one you are jacking up.

    don't know if pumas have greaseable uni joints but if they are you may be able to resurrect for a short time with a good grease. plan on replacing soon if this works.

    with the wheel elevated see if there is any endfloat in the unijoints at various positions. you should not be able to detect any relative motion between the cross tree ( bit in the middle ) and the flange or shaft.

    if the boundary of the moving parts has a rusty smoky appearance it is time for a change.

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