Thread: Rolling Road for 4WD in Perth...

Remove front prop shaft
As both rear wheels are rotating at the same speed TC won't come into play as I believe it just looks at each axle separately

Stability control.......did this feature come in on the late model....not sure if this would activate

Just put it on a 4wd dyno - there are more around than you think - you just need to ask. Nothing needs to be disconnected on the car just do not activate the cdl.

My 101 on a 4wd dyno - be prepared for a shock when you get the power numbers from the wheels - you will appreciate how much the 4wd system sucks the power - my engine produces about 80kw and at the back wheels only about 40kw gets through.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMmeSDHbNy4[/ame]

Pete,

Try United Fuel Injection in Redcliffe or GTurbo in Balcatta and see if they have a RR.


Cheers,

Cripesamighty

Bear in mind that calculating back to an engine power of +/- 20 BHp is within the range of error of most dyno setups and operator skill.

As mentioned though, it is easy to remove the front prop and drive around with the CDL locked to do a test on a single axle dyno. The error in calculating engine power is probably less on a single axle dyno.

For those interested in dyno error and the dodgy things some operators do:

[ame]http://spiff.rit.edu/classes/phys216/workshops/w10c/car_engine/efficiency.pdf[/ame]

https://wahiduddin.net/calc/cf.htm

[ame]http://www.mainlinedyno.com.au/images/downloads/DYNO_TORQUE_FIGURES_-_THE_TRUTH.pdf[/ame]

And also the reason why many on here think their engines produce ridiculously large torque values.

While we always suggest that users of our system should use use Derived Torque on a Report given to customers, they can do as they please, and a lot just use and/or print Roller Torque.

Thanks!

I think I will probably take the front prop shaft off with CDL... that keeps it simple!

I understand that a good dyno should be able to take into account transmission losses and calculate and let one know the `BHP' (KW) at the flywheel... which will either be circa 120 or hopefully 150!

If it's the latter, there will probably be a lot of happy 90 owners out there! :>)

Originally Posted by cripesamighty

Pete,

Try United Fuel Injection in Redcliffe or GTurbo in Balcatta and see if they have a RR.


Cheers,

Cripesamighty

Will do as well!

Thanks.

Originally Posted by YOLO110

I understand that a good dyno should be able to take into account transmission losses and calculate and let one know the `BHP' (KW) at the flywheel... which will either be circa 120 or hopefully 150!

It all comes down to how accurate both the dyno software and operator are. If their rollers are a bit worn or they put in the wrong tyre diameter then all bets are off. Many are lazy and just give you the numbers at the rollers, which are fine for HP at the wheels but the torque numbers are meaningless. And in your case HP at the wheels won't help you.

I would just them you want to see how much power the engine is making. Don't tell them you expect it to be either 120 or 150.

Originally Posted by YOLO110

and I have to say it has always felt quicker than my MY14 110... !


Cheers,

Pete

The 90 is quicker than the 110. The reason is because the engine is the same but the weight of the vehicle is less on the 90 so that translates into acceleration. I'm willing to bet a 130 will feel like a slug next to 90.

I call the 90 the sports version When we first got it Pocket Rocket was worried I was going to get speeding tickets such was the difference.