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Thread: Chucking on a front sway bar only on a 110?

  1. #1
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    Chucking on a front sway bar only on a 110?

    The new-to-me 300Tdi rolls a LOT more than my old 200Tdi which I want to reduce (neither had sway bars so I'm assuming this is due to the short sagged stock springs reducing roll in the 200tdi vs longer replacement front springs on the 300tdi increasing height and roll).

    Don't think I'll be able to fit a rear sway bar with the replacement fuel tank so considering a front sway bar.
    Is this going to work?

    Don't use it for wheeling so articulation not a priority.
    Cheers
    Niels

    Snowy - 1998 300tdi Defender 110

    Past:
    The Toad - 1992 200Tdi Defender 110

  2. #2
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    Pretty sure you just need spacers for the rear sway bar if you have a long range tank fitted.

    Can vaguely remember seeing pics posted.

  3. #3
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    I have done exactly this for the same reason. Mines a Td5 though. I think it's made a huge difference and I'm happy with the results.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by weeds View Post
    Pretty sure you just need spacers for the rear sway bar if you have a long range tank fitted.

    Can vaguely remember seeing pics posted.
    My extended fuel tank wraps under the chassis rails, this is the model pictured:



    Which, if I'm not mistaken, means that it covers up the mounts, so I assumed there would be no real work-around for that.
    Cheers
    Niels

    Snowy - 1998 300tdi Defender 110

    Past:
    The Toad - 1992 200Tdi Defender 110

  5. #5
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    Out of curiosity, is there any difference between having a front sway bar vs a rear sway bar?

    Landy, did you by chance have a rear sway bar prior to the tank upgrade? If so, any difference?
    Cheers
    Niels

    Snowy - 1998 300tdi Defender 110

    Past:
    The Toad - 1992 200Tdi Defender 110

  6. #6
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    I have both now on the county. I have all late defender suspension and brakes, and it handles beautifully into turns and on rough dirt. Very happy with both sway bars.

    Jc
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Plutei View Post
    Out of curiosity, is there any difference between having a front sway bar vs a rear sway bar?

    Landy, did you by chance have a rear sway bar prior to the tank upgrade? If so, any difference?
    No, there weren't any swaybars fitted to mine. I'm pretty sure they were an option only.

    I have the same tank. No way to fit a rear swaybar.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Plutei View Post
    My extended fuel tank wraps under the chassis rails, this is the model pictured:







    Which, if I'm not mistaken, means that it covers up the mounts, so I assumed there would be no real work-around for that.


    I think your correct, I forgot about your style of long range fuel tank.

  9. #9
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    I have a similar one that goes under the RH chassis rail like yours.
    Can't fit the rear sway bar, and the mounts actually had to be cut off to fit the tank in the first place.
    I wouldn't ever fit that style of tank again. Removal of the rear sway bar (even the light one on the county) makes a BIG difference to body roll on the road.
    I'd go down the path of fitting a RH quarter tank with either the standard main tank or larger one that still allowed sway bay fitment.

    I regained a bit of roll stiffness by fitting Firestone helper airbags in the rear springs, and generally just running them with minimal pressure. Better than nothing, but poor substitute for the sway bar
    Its still like the Titanic when compared to my 130 which has front and rear bars.

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  10. #10
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    Bloody wusses, a little roll never hurt anyone.









    FWIW my BT50 work ute lurches badly.
    High riser suspension and little low speed damping makes it flop and wallow through corners.
    I've found I need to pick it up by the scruff of the neck and hurl it at a corner, make sure I'm in the right gear and nail the 3.2 when it's roughly pointing in the right direction, then it drives ok, or at least is a little more fun. (and even more fun scaring the apprentices )

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