Thread: 300tdi Defender - Oil pouring out of front sump wading plug

Thanks again workingonit, I hope you're right, I was pretty bummed out thinking I stuffed it.
I will get a multimeter on the wire tomorrow and see what the battery is running as well.
The split shroud is a good coolant saving idea, might give that a go if everything turns out hunky dory.
I can take the timing case off, especially if it's still leaking oil, but not sure what I'd look for timing wise other than slack in the belt.

crack off the injector lines and crank it over if its not spraying/leaking diesel its not a belt issue its a priming or fuel supply issue

first step is to run a hotwire from the battery to the fuel pump soelnoid.

Alright fellas, I tried your suggestions this evening.
There was diesel spraying out the injector pipes, not looking good for my timing job.
I checked the battery and it was reading 12.4v, likely a little slow from all the cranking but not low enough I would think. It's in charge either way.

So then, more info on my timing job.
I followed this guide in lr4x4. And pretty much to the letter.
I know it's a lot less detailed than your guide blknight, unfortunately I didn't find yours until after the new belt was on.

Some points where it mightve stuffed up.

* This guide doesn't use any paint pen marks, relies on the timing pin (I was using a drill bit)
* I undid the crank nut using the less approved breaker bar on chassis rail method.
* I followed the guide and put the crank nut back on to turn the engine to TDC, but then was stuck with no way to get it off again.
I ended up using the timing pin and the compression to crack the loose (I realise that's an awful way to do it, in hind sight)
* I tried manually turning the crank after trying to start the engine a while. Took the fuel kill wire off and got about 3/4 rotation and then felt hard compression but I couldn't move it any further.

Quite a few novice mistakes that look like they costed me the job, but at least I can think back to where I went wrong I suppose...

Any advice where to go from here?
Thanks, I know I must be coming off as a shocking weekend warrior

I assume you had the pin in the injector before removing the old belt. Did you also put a pin into the flywheel before removing the belt?

Your reference instructions say to have the woodroffe key on the crank 12 noon, which is correct - but I'm not sure how approximate that is. To be sure I always put the pin in the flywheel as per Haynes and other sources (or flexplate in my case, being auto).

Having a pin in the flywheel would have made it easier for you to take the nose bolt out after rotating the timing belt and gear assembly into place.

That guide does only use the woodruff key, no mention of the flywheel pin. I have heard of it, but saw a few posts on here of people who thought the smaller slot might snap with a breaker on the crank, especially with a home made pin (I. E. drill bit).

None the less, I will get one and try again.
To clarify in sorting out the timing,
If the flywheel pin, injector pump pin, crank woodruff, and the camshaft arrows are all in the correct placement - the timing would be correct to put the belt on?

I would have thought you could tighten/loosen the crank bolt with the gearbox in 4th gear high range. The flywheel timing pin is really critical for getting accurate timing but shouldn't be used to hold the crank for bolt tightening. You'll also have to double check that the camshaft hasn't shifted relative to the crank. With the rocker cover off the valves on no. 4 cylinder should be just rocking from exhaust to inlet at no.1 cylinder's TDC position. Then identify the correct cam gear mark and align it.

Originally Posted by Tas

* I tried manually turning the crank after trying to start the engine a while. Took the fuel kill wire off and got about 3/4 rotation and then felt hard compression but I couldn't move it any further.

I dont like the way that reads.....

If the timing is far enough out the pistons will hit the valves.

Sent from my SM-G800F using AULRO mobile app

Like SSmith, I also wondered at the meaning of not being able to hand rotate a full revolution - just baulking at the high pressure moment or something else obstructive? I'm unclear on whether there has been complete rotation, on the starter as mentioned earlier, or any other way? Sounds like you have fuel flow, but was that achieved by rotating the injector pump, therefore the entire motor, or was the fuel made to flow by using the lift pump only. Need some clarification.

I was not meaning that you use the flywheel pin to do the first crack of the nose bolt, nor for the final tightening.

Rather, after removing the timing cover, before removing the belt, you will want to reinsert the nose bolt by hand so you can position the whole belt train TDC. The only torque tightening the bolt should be subject would be a little more than the force required to rotate the engine components - not much.

Once you have positioned the belt train TDC then insert the flywheel pin (further slight adjustment will probably be required to seat the pin in the slot properly). Once the pin is in place it will provide enough resistance to allow you to wind the crank nose bolt counter clockwise to remove it without disturbing alignment. Then, with the additional pinning of the injector pump, you should be safe to remove the belt, marking the position of the old belt and transferring it to the new. And of course checking the cam alignment in the process, which should be OK if the engine was running well before the work commenced.

The position of the woodroffe key simply reflects the work of the flywheel pin (unless someone has ruined the original woodroffe slot and cut a new one elsewhere on the shaft ). So its pin the injector, pin the flywheel TDC number one, check the cam. Install belt.

Just before installing the belt I first partly extracted the crank cam by about a quarter of its length. I then start the belt install at the injector, then across to the cam, having the belt about one third on. To hold the belt in this position I use an engineers clamp, or buy one of those mini vice grip kits from Supercheap. Then proceed with the belt down through the tensioner to the crank cam then around back through the tensioner. Once all lined up I remove the clamps and begin to push more of the belt on, incrementally moving the crank cam back in.

To test my work I do not reassemble everything. Rather, once the belt is on and tensioned I then reinstall the harmonic balancer, washer and bolt hand tight (no cover). Running the engine for 20-30 seconds should give you an indication all is OK - you will see the belt does not run very fast compared to the serpentine belt because the crank pully is much smaller than the harmonic pully . If not OK then much easier at this point of the work to try again with alignment.