Bent tie rod

I have bent one and just removed it and found a suitable tree and just belt it against the tree where the bend is.
It is interesting how straight you can get them in the bush .
Since the one and only bent one i have gone heavy duty .
I have seen Nissota`s bend them and they are supposed to be strong ;).
Weak points or a fuse in engineering i get but sorry i make my car stronger where ever i can and that includes diff`s , axles , transmission , steering , brakes , suspension , body armour and so as do plenty of others;)

Thanks to all for replies. I definitely think they were designed to bend to save further damage to steering but I was amazed at just how little force was needed to put it seriously out of whack. Must have nudged that rock in just the right spot as I was crawling along in first gear high range as the grass is very tall here this spring. Have straighten it so now driveable and will replace. Just checking what the OEM bar costs but the APT bar looks like the go. Just have to figure out how to switch off the DSC light which now constantly stays on.
Pete

Buy parts from the UK,much cheaper. Pat

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Originally Posted by PAT303

Buy parts from the UK,much cheaper. Pat

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postage is the killer. I bought a door skin for GBP 86 and paid GPB 95 for the courier. The FX is not as good as it was a few years back. For some items, when postage is taken into account, it's not far off parity to locally sourced.

I paid $500 for my winch bar from the UK posted to Newman,the same bar in Oz was $650 for the bar plus $220 postage from Perth. Pat

I find buying from the UK you basically have to double the price to convert to dollars and then double it again for freight, as a rule of thumb, if it has any weight or is bulky.

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Originally Posted by DiscoMick

I find buying from the UK you basically have to double the price to convert to dollars and then double it again for freight, as a rule of thumb, if it has any weight or is bulky.

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You might try reading my post,I got a winch bar posted to my door in Newman for less than the retail price in Oz ;). I bought my Tdi's heater matrix from the UK last year,$52 delivered,buying one in Oz, $405 without delivery. Pat

Over the years I've straitened tie rods from Land Rovers , Range Rovers and Discos . They tend to bend from the middle in a nice arch . I find the best way is use the tow ball , they fit just nice in there as a pivot point . I recon I can get them as strait as is posable doing it this way . If I can I get the biggest bloke around to give me a hand !!.. Jim

I bent the tie-rod on my 2012 130, during some extreme winching. We were pulling stumps and had the front wheels chocked against a low rock wall.
My "assistant", who was standing on the brakes, let the wheel go full lock.
After suceeding pulling the tree stump, I noticed the steering had become a little vague. I finally took a look over the steering/suspension and the tie rod was bent (see pic)

Ive straightened in my workshop press, and the steering is good, but intend to replace it, most likely with a standard rod.
From what Ive read here, I may have had some serious damage to more expensive components, if the rod had not "sacrificed"

Its the worst part about the LandRover live axle coiler design,

However You can buy a cranked rod from Rockware USA
http://goingbush.com/defer/tr4.jpg




The Salisbury front end is even worse because the rod is cranked (lower ) under the diff .

https://scontent-syd2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...36&oe=5D855C60


Im building a special front end , cutting both axle tubes & rotating the diff downward so that its level, (how it should have been from factory ) and will be cranking the rod so that it goes up over the top of the diff nose.