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Thread: Bent tie rod

  1. #1
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    Bent tie rod

    Hi there,
    Was out checking some stock in the Def90 (MY15) and drove over a large rock hidden in the tall grass!! Was in first gear so only moving slow but still managed to bend the tie rod and snapped off the aluminium guard that the rod sits in. Luckily had a solid APT bash plate fitted so could have been far worse. OK to drive but will replace. What should a tie rod cost?
    Pete

  2. #2
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    $220 from APT....plus freight

    An OEM one would be pretty cheap i thought

  3. #3
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    Much cheaper to straighten it.

  4. #4
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    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Yes, but very difficult to get perfectly straight, and any slight bend makes it a lot weaker. John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by POD View Post
    Much cheaper to straighten it.
    and weld a length of angle on it. Won't ever bend again and the flat sides make adjustment a breeze. (and yes it might be illegal in some States but so are most modifications in a strict sense).
    MLD

    Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
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  6. #6
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    Run a standard one,they are designed to bend.If you get a stronger ''improved'' one you can bull the tie rod end socket off the ball which will leave you stranded at best,at worse you will crash.LR designed it weak for a reason. Pat

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAT303 View Post
    Run a standard one,they are designed to bend.If you get a stronger ''improved'' one you can bull the tie rod end socket off the ball which will leave you stranded at best,at worse you will crash.LR designed it weak for a reason. Pat


    I don't reckon it was designed as a weak point......

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by weeds View Post
    I don't reckon it was designed as a weak point......
    It was designed as a weak point because LR engineers new from experience that it'll get snagged sooner or later,best idea is to make it weaker so it'll give way but still give steering.This has been done to death on here,a mate was stuck in the Vic high country with a pulled tie rod end in his RRC,another stuck at Wedderburn,I bent two and got home both times.Having a sacrificial part has been in English engineering for a long time. Pat

  9. #9
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    Bent tie rod

    Quote Originally Posted by PAT303 View Post
    It was designed as a weak point because LR engineers new from experience that it'll get snagged sooner or later,best idea is to make it weaker so it'll give way but still give steering.This has been done to death on here,a mate was stuck in the Vic high country with a pulled tie rod end in his RRC,another stuck at Wedderburn,I bent two and got home both times.Having a sacrificial part has been in English engineering for a long time. Pat


    Fair enough.....I have never found a reference re: weak points by design by land rover. Any chance you can list the designed weak points across the range of land rovers, it'd be handy to know.

    I run upgraded after bending two OEM.....haven't bent one since, I used to carry my OEM as a spare for many years but ended up leaving it at home

    In all the perentie that used to come through the workshop the only bent ones were OEM...the upgraded ones never bent nor seemed to damage anything else.

    I've never seen a tie pull its thread, not saying it doesn't happen

    I guess the OP will make a choice either way.

    Oh, have had to weld some angle and flat bar to many OEM tie rods to get cars home.

  10. #10
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    I've only bent them twice but taking it off and straightening it using a tree stump for an anvil has got things sorted. Don't think I'd ever bother fitting a stronger one.

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