$220 from APT....plus freight
An OEM one would be pretty cheap i thought
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Hi there,
Was out checking some stock in the Def90 (MY15) and drove over a large rock hidden in the tall grass!! Was in first gear so only moving slow but still managed to bend the tie rod and snapped off the aluminium guard that the rod sits in. Luckily had a solid APT bash plate fitted so could have been far worse. OK to drive but will replace. What should a tie rod cost?
Pete
$220 from APT....plus freight
An OEM one would be pretty cheap i thought
Much cheaper to straighten it.
Yes, but very difficult to get perfectly straight, and any slight bend makes it a lot weaker. John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
MLD
Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110
 OldBushie
					
					
						OldBushie
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Run a standard one,they are designed to bend.If you get a stronger ''improved'' one you can bull the tie rod end socket off the ball which will leave you stranded at best,at worse you will crash.LR designed it weak for a reason. Pat
 OldBushie
					
					
						OldBushie
					
					
                                        
					
					
						It was designed as a weak point because LR engineers new from experience that it'll get snagged sooner or later,best idea is to make it weaker so it'll give way but still give steering.This has been done to death on here,a mate was stuck in the Vic high country with a pulled tie rod end in his RRC,another stuck at Wedderburn,I bent two and got home both times.Having a sacrificial part has been in English engineering for a long time. Pat
Fair enough.....I have never found a reference re: weak points by design by land rover. Any chance you can list the designed weak points across the range of land rovers, it'd be handy to know.
I run upgraded after bending two OEM.....haven't bent one since, I used to carry my OEM as a spare for many years but ended up leaving it at home
In all the perentie that used to come through the workshop the only bent ones were OEM...the upgraded ones never bent nor seemed to damage anything else.
I've never seen a tie pull its thread, not saying it doesn't happen
I guess the OP will make a choice either way.
Oh, have had to weld some angle and flat bar to many OEM tie rods to get cars home.
I've only bent them twice but taking it off and straightening it using a tree stump for an anvil has got things sorted. Don't think I'd ever bother fitting a stronger one.
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