Thread: Puma 2.2 Egt's

[quote=Tombie;2635704]

Originally Posted by Beery

Challenge is then you need to slow the flow rate, and increase resistance to reduce nucleate boiling and cavitation damage..

Thats what the water wetter is for.

Originally Posted by Beery

This is the stuff I mean.


Nulon's Radiator Corrosion Protector - protects your cooling systems from rust and corrosion for 3 years or 100,000kms no matter the age or metal type. NOTE: For vehicles that require a Type A OEM replacement coolant use Nulon Long Life Coolants, available in both Concentrate and Pre-Mixed variants.
BENEFITS:

• Contains advanced long life inhibitor technology for maximum corrosion protection of all cooling system metals for 3 years or 100,000km
• Built in Water Wetter promotes quicker heat reduction over conventional coolant
• Protects aluminium, steel, cast iron, solder, copper and brass
• Safe for all hoses, gaskets and seals
• Exceeds Australian AS 2108-2004 Type B standard

Only catch - LRs post about 2003 require Type A coolants so this is not so good...

Then of course there is Diesel Coolant - which is even better for Diesel engines...

Originally Posted by Tombie

Only catch - LRs post about 2003 require Type A coolants so this is not so good...

Then of course there is Diesel Coolant - which is even better for Diesel engines...

"Type A coolants are antifreeze/antiboil coolants with corrosion inhibitor that comply with the requirements of this standard. Type B coolants are coolants with corrosion inhibitors only that comply with the requirements of this standard."

The type just refers to whether it is an inhibitor mixed with glycol, or an inhibitor only.

Im not talking about getting rid of all glycol, just watering it down and then boosting the inhibitors with the nulon stuff

Originally Posted by dazzler

Dont have an egt sensor but I do monitor temp through a HUD plugged to the obd 2.

During my recent VIC high country trip with a fully laden car I had the following observation:

2.2
No probe
Tyre size: 285/75 R16 BFG KM2
Tune: BAS 170 AB
Intercooler: BAS
Exhaust mods: D-CAT
Snorkel: Safari with standard paper filter
Normal coolant temp is around 89 (even at sustained highway speeds *20 ). The temp did climb going over the mountains in low range when the going was very slow to about 97 for a short period of time.

My Truck by the Way:

Id love to test the BAS tune and see what sort of egt readings i get.
Anyone in sydney keen to swap ecu's for a week?

I don't think you can swap them between vehicles...

Cheers.

Both my Tdi and TDCi sit on 88-92 when driving everyday,both get up to 95-100 if pushed hard towing on a hot day.Personally I'd forget fix's,just maintain the cooling system 100% and drive to the conditions,flushing,rodding the core and viscous hubs are cheap,very cheap compared to head repairs.For cooling you want good airflow,fit gills into the guards,they also help lower cabin temps. Pat

Originally Posted by dazzler

Dont have an egt sensor but I do monitor temp through a HUD plugged to the obd 2.

During my recent VIC high country trip with a fully laden car I had the following observation:

2.2
No probe
Tyre size: 285/75 R16 BFG KM2
Tune: BAS 170 AB
Intercooler: BAS
Exhaust mods: D-CAT
Snorkel: Safari with standard paper filter
Normal coolant temp is around 89 (even at sustained highway speeds *20 ). The temp did climb going over the mountains in low range when the going was very slow to about 97 for a short period of time.

My Truck by the Way:

Not having a bar loaded with crap blocking airflow helps. Pat

Agree pat, hence I removed a pair of HID driving lights to be replaced with




to help with the heat buildup in the cabin I will be padding the transmission tunnel I think.