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Thread: A Few Resto Questions

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by USDefender View Post
    Pulling x-fer case today...do I get the mod or will the later spud shaft fit?
    The spud shaft can be replaced with the later version however the gearbox output shaft and tfr case input shafts also wear - if caught early enough you can get away with just the spud shaft but you may have to replace the gearbox/tfr shafts.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
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  2. #12
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    At this stage I wouldn't worry about diff upgrades etc. You will see that the restoration comes out more expensive than planned! I can truly speak from experience... EBC brake upgrades, yes if you get a deal otherwise a post-2002 110 front setup will be more than sufficient. Same for galvanising the chassis. Paints have made huge progress the last 10 years so there are cheaper option which have advantages over galvanising. Just my cents worth. m

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    The spud shaft can be replaced with the later version however the gearbox output shaft and tfr case input shafts also wear - if caught early enough you can get away with just the spud shaft but you may have to replace the gearbox/tfr shafts.
    We might be having a language problem 🙂. I've looked at the parts catalogue and microcat, but can't find a 'spud shaft'? Please elaborate...cheers

  4. #14
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    The output shaft of the gear box is splined as the input shaft if the tfr case is also splined - the spud shaft is a hunk of metal - cylinder in shape I think that is splined inside that fits over the gearbox output splines and the tfr case input splines and joins the two shafts. Oil has trouble getting in there causing wear so the later spud shafts have holes drilled in them to let oil into the splines.

    A google search of spud shaft aulro will through up lots of information. a few examples

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...lem-grrrr.html

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...sfer-case.html

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/classic-ra...t230-swap.html

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...-problems.html

    These are just a few referencing the spud shaft that can be removed without dismantling the gearbox/tfr case.

    Cheers

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  5. #15
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    spud shaft - bolted to gearbox output shaft
    Ashcroft Transmissions

    spud shaft goes into this input gear located in transfer case (what you see when you take the rear round access cover off)
    http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co...nput-gear.html

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by USDefender View Post
    We might be having a language problem 🙂. I've looked at the parts catalogue and microcat, but can't find a 'spud shaft'? Please elaborate...cheers
    Your LT77 doesn't have a spud shaft, that part is only fitted to ZF auto boxes.

  7. #17
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    But since they've asked, they now know what a spud shaft is

    Have vague memories of separating a transfercase from a gearbox in an old RRClassic to find a fine spline 'spud' inside another fine spline 'spud' attached to the gearbox output shaft - maybe LRovers way of adapting the gearbox to different configurations?

    As Dervish indicates, some output shafts on some gearboxes go straight into the input gear in the transfer case - no intermediate spud shaft to take the abuse. If you get bad wearing in this kind of set up then you are potentially faced with a gearbox rebuild to replace the worn output shaft as well as replacing the input gear in the transfer case.

  8. #18
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    Having also done a ground up restoration I agree with most of what manic says and others.

    I have a galed chassis and firewall. But for a lot less effort overall you can substantially reduce the risk of both rusting. You just need to put some type of coating over at risk areas on a regular basis.

    Epoxy enamel touch up over exposed areas of the diff is quite sufficient without sandblasting.

    Three quaifes is also pretty extreme. I have a trutrack in the front. It's been so good I can't justify spending more to get more traction. I've only lacked sufficient traction once since fitting it.

    Fix or replace what's needed. You'll spend plenty doing that.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  9. #19
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    Appreciate the help guys...these posts have changed my perspective. Will focus on repairing factory deficiencies for now...upgrades later. It'll give me something to do in the future.


    Confirmed my output shaft goes directly into the input gear (no spudshaft). Both were wore and are getting replaced with Ashcroft parts...I'm going to go ahead and rebuild both while I have them opened up. At this point I'll have an entirely new drive line post crankshaft.


    Cheers!

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