I run a relatively 'dumb' Blue sea systems ACR (compared to the DC DC things with all their extra circuitry), benefit of this one is its current handling capability over a lot of the other options out there.
Like tim's unit, mine has the ability to combine or isolate bateries on command, useful to self jump start, or combine multiple batteries for high amp draw operations (winching etc).
It's a giant can of worms, be warned, but for the average punter like myself (basic camping, no fridge, no caravan etc), a basic system will more likely than not pull you up.
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
My first isolator was a manual switch aka idiot switch as your bound to forget to either isolated or de-isolate.
I than moved to a traxide......
Fitting a basic redarc to my new rig.
Having the two batteries connected to give more capacity hasn't isn't a big priority as one I like to leave the starter out of the equation and secondly I have never not parked up long enough without moving where my solar doesn't keep up.
I have used the jaycar unit. Had problems with the USB outlets draining my house battery down to 5v. Put the Jaycar unit between the house battery and the USB outlets to protect the battery. The jaycar unit kept staying closed - not always but 1 in 5 times it would let the battery drain.
Some new vehicles come with AGM batteries with an alternator setup for them, definitely not all new cars. Particularly with a lot of the Jap stuff they are having problems with putting out enough voltage to get an AGM past about 85%. This the trouble I was having with my Disco 2. Sometimes the alternator was only giving out mid to high 12s and so my AGM wasn't charging fully. This was with a new alternator so I look it back and had it replaced - same story. Now I have say 12.5 - 13v on battery 1 and 13.9 - 14.5 whilst driving. Looking at the specs for approx 100Ah AGM for float it has 13.6 to 13.8v or cycling 14.6 - 14.8v
Our Discovery 2 puts out 14.7 at start up, dropping to 13.8 after about 20 minutes and on a very long run about 13.4
This is with the new alternator and the original which failed about 2 years ago.
Hi again mrs, those specs are the MAXIMUM tolerable voltages, not the MINIMUM required to fully charge the battery and relates to charging batteries with a battery charger, not an alternator.
If you have a decent quality AGM battery, then check out the specs for that specific battery, at that battery's manufacturers web site.
Each battery has it's own specific specs but there are some common specs, like MAXIMUM voltage tolerances.
For all modern AGMs, the maximum voltage is 14.7v.
There are some exceptions, like Optima Yellowtops and Bluetops, where they have a MAXIMUM voltage of 15.0v but can be fully charged with as low as 13.65v
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