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Thread: Advice needed - 300tdi clutch repair

  1. #1
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    Advice needed - 300tdi clutch repair

    About to (finally) work on the clutch on Hector ('94 300tdi Defender).

    I am pretty sure that the clutch fork has punched through - I was able to look through the hole for the slave cylinder and there was no pressure on the fork. In fact I could move it backwards and forwards very easily.

    Anyway, I figured I had to get in there and have a look. I have ordered a new HD clutch and all the bits and pieces from Paddocks (very helpful people and good prices). When they arrive I am planning on working on the clutch and getting the old boy on the road again.

    I am planning on removing the motor and grearbox together. While its out I want to see if I can stem some of the oil leaks.

    So, here are the questions:
    Has anybody got any advice on how best to get the motor/gearbox out - any hints?
    Anythings you recommend I do while I have it out?
    Anything else you can think of?

    Thanks in advance for your help.


    ('94 300tdi apron 350,000 km)

  2. #2
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    why do you want to take them both out together?

    doing so will exceed the rating on most floor cranes and tilting the engine and box combo usually results in fouling on the arm.


    I usually just pull the engine out first then lower the box using the engine crane through the door if I have to take both out and dont have a gearbox jack handy.
    Dave

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  3. #3
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    Pull the motor first and then the gearbox if needed.
    Do all the gaskets and seals while its out.(what you can do)
    The rear main seal is probably leaking by now.
    Put 2 gaskets on the vacuum pump.
    You will need 4 orings for the oil cooler pipes.
    There is an oring on the oil thermostat, replace that as it will be rock hard.
    The p/s feed hose to the pump usually leaks as the rubber will be hard and not sealing.
    Rocker cover gasket and sealing washers.
    Get a new spigot bearing for the crankshaft.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by jboot51 View Post
    Pull the motor first and then the gearbox if needed.
    Do all the gaskets and seals while its out.(what you can do)
    The rear main seal is probably leaking by now.
    Put 2 gaskets on the vacuum pump.
    You will need 4 orings for the oil cooler pipes.
    There is an oring on the oil thermostat, replace that as it will be rock hard.
    The p/s feed hose to the pump usually leaks as the rubber will be hard and not sealing.
    Rocker cover gasket and sealing washers.
    Get a new spigot bearing for the crankshaft.
    Thanks for this, just the sort of info I need. Making a list of now. Thanks again.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    why do you want to take them both out together?

    doing so will exceed the rating on most floor cranes and tilting the engine and box combo usually results in fouling on the arm.


    I usually just pull the engine out first then lower the box using the engine crane through the door if I have to take both out and dont have a gearbox jack handy.
    Ok, that sounds easy - thank you

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