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Thread: Driving in the heat

  1. #11
    stewie110 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by In A Landy Down Under View Post
    If the heat is coming from the handbrake then the current direction of cool air from the air-con, blasting out directly at your legs, would surely be the best place for it, no?

    I can only think the "crude and annoying blast of hot air" mentioned on MUD's site, would only be for those in the UK using heaters in winter.
    That's correct, the heater creates a nice hot spot on the leg when it's on max temp and flow. The Mud product dissipates the heat so the whole footwell warms not just the spot on your leg.

    My experience is that it is not very effective in Australian heats for air-conditioning as the warm floor is a greater surface than the cooling of the air conditioning.

    I put magma wrap on my exhaust from the catalytic converter back. The temperature drop in the cabin was substantial. I am seriously thinking now about dropping the catalytic converter or figuring out how to wrap it up in magma... The air-conditioning is now much more effective on long trips towing.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by stewie110 View Post

    I put magma wrap on my exhaust from the catalytic converter back. The temperature drop in the cabin was substantial. I am seriously thinking now about dropping the catalytic converter or figuring out how to wrap it up in magma... The air-conditioning is now much more effective on long trips towing.
    I have removed the cat, wrapped the decat pipe and I removed the floor panels on both sides, painted them with a deadener then attached 10mm foil backed foam heat insulation inside and out, it keeps it pretty cool now, as I said my issue is just the hot air getting sucked in through the handbrake mount (when I have the windows open) will fix that some day. But it is definitely worth removing the cat for heat reduction, and the floor panels come out very easily so worth doing them also. I have an oil leak in the transfer case and even though I insulated around that it gets hot sometimes, usually when I need to top it up with oil :-).

    Pat.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by D90 orkney View Post
    I noticed the footwell, gearbox side was quite hot when doing long runs in heat. I was thinking about lagging my exhaust too. Makes a big difference?
    Nope.
    The heat in the foot well comes from the cat,the cabin heat comes from the gearbox/transfer case.You need insolation under the seat box-floor and a de-cat pipe. Pat

  4. #14
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    Is it just me or does the floor stay cooler if you keep the windows up? I generally drive with the drivers window down so I have somewhere for my arm to be, but I've noticed the floor/footwell doesn't heat up with the window up.

    Cheers,

  5. #15
    AndyG's Avatar
    AndyG is offline YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
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    IMHO I found lagging the exhaust dropped gear boc temp by 5C measured by a tms4, and cabin temp definitely. It only got better when I removed the centre muffler and lagged the straight thru pipe. I've left the decat in as want to be marginally legal
    By all means get a Defender. If you get a good one, you'll be happy. If you get a bad one, you'll become a philosopher.
    apologies to Socrates

    Clancy MY15 110 Defender

    Clancy's gone to Queensland Rovering, and we don't know where he are

  6. #16
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    Magma tape exhaust lagging.

    After following this thread, I've just gone and purchased some silver Magma tape lagging and will give the appropriate attention to my exhaust system.
    $33 for 15 m x 50mm off eBay.AU, delivered.
    I've well insulated my floor area with Dynamat, Dyna liner and acoustic matting where required, and aluminium exhaust shield where the pipe work gets close to the floor, with very good results, so the tape can only make things better. Decat makes such a difference re heat in the cabin, although I still get a warm hand brake assembly.
    Thanks fellas.
    Ken

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baytown View Post
    After following this thread, I've just gone and purchased some silver Magma tape lagging and will give the appropriate attention to my exhaust system.
    $33 for 15 m x 50mm off eBay.AU, delivered.
    I've well insulated my floor area with Dynamat, Dyna liner and acoustic matting where required, and aluminium exhaust shield where the pipe work gets close to the floor, with very good results, so the tape can only make things better. Decat makes such a difference re heat in the cabin, although I still get a warm hand brake assembly.
    Thanks fellas.
    Ken
    I can't find a decat pipe. Have you got one Ken? Where from?

  8. #18
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    You can buy them from most of the UK big tuning fellas, but MRA Landrover in Brisbane made one up for me when they removed the Cat and did all the engine work.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baytown View Post
    You can buy them from most of the UK big tuning fellas, but MRA Landrover in Brisbane made one up for me when they removed the Cat and did all the engine work.
    Getting the centre muffler out tomorrow with a straight through pipe. Might ask him if he can make up a decat while it's there. Changed the note of the exhaust? Whistle?

  10. #20
    AndyG's Avatar
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    There is discussion elsewhere about the risk of overspooling the turbo, but this is hearsay on my part
    By all means get a Defender. If you get a good one, you'll be happy. If you get a bad one, you'll become a philosopher.
    apologies to Socrates

    Clancy MY15 110 Defender

    Clancy's gone to Queensland Rovering, and we don't know where he are

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