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If you have the ears that are spot welded on it would be best to bin it.
The newer style pulley is one piece.
13Nm is what I go for using a dial torque wrench.
As you put the belt on, rotate the injector pump pulley clockwise on the slots and let the belt rotate it anticlockwise to its resting position.
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More info
Once the belt it tensioned, you will find that the injector pump timing pin won't come out easily.
I put a 22m socket on the pump drive nut and gently turn clockwise untill the timing pin moves freely. While holding this position I then tension the 3x 10mm pulley bolts.
Also I still rotate the engine by hand 2 revolutions and redo the belt tension sequence. This will allow the belt to walk on the pulleys to its natural position.
There is a small round fibre washer on the timing cover that needs to be there, easily missed if your not aware of it.
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1 Attachment(s)
sorry guys I think ive got the newer one - decided to get off the computer and go look at it in the garage [biggrin]
I can't see any spot weld anywhere - looks like the one piece unit - like this one below:
Attachment 120692
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That one looks fine.
The bad ones have obvious spot welds on the front face of the lip.
here you can make out the spot welds. Probably just an old photo.
Land Rover 300 TDi Crankshaft Pulley LHH100660
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Re belt tension, sorry, can't find my RAVE with the TSB in it but it's lower than what is stated in the manual.
Have the cover in the laptop bag, god only knows where the disc is after three moves since I last used it....[bighmmm]
It's important to do the couple of revs mentioned above too to seat the belt.
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The spotwelded crsnk gears are unobtainable now snywsy. As nd i find the best method of fotting the new seal is the turn the old crank pulley around and refit it to the crank, fit the new one on too and use it to push the old pulley against the seal by doing up the crank bolt. This ensures the seal goes in dead square.
Jc
