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Thread: 300tdi camshaft and crankshaft front ( inner and outer) oil seal questions

  1. #1
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    300tdi camshaft and crankshaft front ( inner and outer) oil seal questions

    hi guys,

    Doing the timing belt this weekend and its apparent that the crankshaft oil seal is leaking. I've currently got the engine at TDC, the fuel pump locking tool in place and the flywheel pin in also. Ive got a replacement crankshaft oil seal here - and a few questions before I go much further...

    1. should I replace the camshaft oil seal at the same time as the crankshaft oil seal ? - if yes - what is the best way to undo the centrebolt of the camshaft pulley? ( as the belt is off, it will turn as I try to unbolt it and move off its TDC mark - does that even matter? )

    2. I've removed the crankshaft pulley and see the seal behind it - looks like a simple pull out, press in - with the lips facing inward toward the engine - should I oil or grease them first - any tips here?

    3. Whats the best way to replace the camshaft pulley? do I just tap it in with a suitable drift?

    4. the outer seal ( the one on the timing belt cover plate - seems very 'loose' the centre metal band has a lot of play - is this normal, or should I replace that too?

    thanks guys

  2. #2
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    Use a rattle gun to undo the centre bolt of the cam pulley. Hold the pulley with one hand. It has a dowel so will only go back on one way. You can do a final tension once the belt is back on.
    Lube the seals before sending them home as the rubber can get torn on installation.
    There is also the oring on the inside of the crack pulley.
    The outer seal for the crank is really a dust seal, so replace it if you have one. There are 2 types but are not interchangeable.
    The steel sleeved ones are not as common.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  3. #3
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    Done timing belt this weekend.

    Crank seal and o ring
    Front cover crank seal

    Had the cam seal but forgot to slacken the nut on the pulley whilst belt was on, so left it (not leaking).

    I prised the crank seal out with a big screwdriver and hammered the new one in with a hub nut socket and mallet. Cleaned up the surfaces leaving thin film of oil, close to dry. Went in no drama. Genuine seals.

    Front cover seal is even easier, should replace on every belt change imo.

  4. #4
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    Andy, I wouldn't bother with the cam seal (unless it's leaking)

    The cam is only spinning at half crank speed anyway, and FWIW I did my last Tdi timing belt at 310,000km and had never touched the cam seal.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by jboot51 View Post
    There is also the oring on the inside of the crack pulley.
    Thanks jboot51,I wasn't aware of that o-ring.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    Andy, I wouldn't bother with the cam seal (unless it's leaking)

    The cam is only spinning at half crank speed anyway, and FWIW I did my last Tdi timing belt at 310,000km and had never touched the cam seal.

    Thanks Rick,this engine has done 345k and the last timing change was done in 2012, km's unknown at that point - but i'm fairly sure cam seal is not leaking now - the oil in the case does look to have originated from the crank seal.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    Andy, I wouldn't bother with the cam seal (unless it's leaking)

    The cam is only spinning at half crank speed anyway, and FWIW I did my last Tdi timing belt at 310,000km and had never touched the cam seal.
    I did that once, and within 5K the dry cam seal was spewing oil all over the new belt.

    If you haven't remembered to loosen the cam bolt, just fit up the belt temporarily, crack the cam bolt and replace the seal, they are cheaper than belts.

  8. #8
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    When changing the O ring, which crank pulley do you have ?

    The OE one has spot welded 'ears', the best one is the Bearmach style, which is one piece.
    The OE ones have a habit of dropping the ears, which isn't good....

    Also, what tension are you using on the tensioner ?

    There is a revised spec issued in a TSB, the one listed in the manual is a little too high.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    I did that once, and within 5K the dry cam seal was spewing oil all over the new belt.

    If you haven't remembered to loosen the cam bolt, just fit up the belt temporarily, crack the cam bolt and replace the seal, they are cheaper than belts.
    Fair enough, a bit like when I changed a clutch at 220,000, I replaced the input and output shaft seals on the R380 too as I reckoned they'd probably let go within 10,000km.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    When changing the O ring, which crank pulley do you have ?

    The OE one has spot welded 'ears', the best one is the Bearmach style, which is one piece.
    The OE ones have a habit of dropping the ears, which isn't good....

    Also, what tension are you using on the tensioner ?

    There is a revised spec issued in a TSB, the one listed in the manual is a little too high.
    I've got the original OE one with ' ears'

    I think the tension I was going to use was 11nm ? sound right to you ?

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