Thread: Shocks and front turret.

Longer bump stops will stop the shocks going metal to metal in bump, but will restrict ultimate bump travel.

In my experience you need to lift the turret 1/2" or so, and then you get a more balanced bump/droop ratio.
Droop or down travel is restricted by the inherent roll stiffness of the bushes in the radius arms anyway.
To increase droop you either need

a) holey bushes
b) disconnect on one radius arm
c) 3 link
d) Superior radius arms

Also bear in mind that your front driveshaft will probably bind the uni at full droop unless you have a wide angle yoke or a DC front shaft and if you are running a front anti-roll bar the driveshaft will crash into it at full droop.

Change one thing from stock and you create a whole lot of other compromises.

Originally Posted by rick130

Longer bump stops will stop the shocks going metal to metal in bump, but will restrict ultimate bump travel.

In my experience you need to lift the turret 1/2" or so, and then you get a more balanced bump/droop ratio.
Droop or down travel is restricted by the inherent roll stiffness of the bushes in the radius arms anyway.
To increase droop you either need

a) holey bushes
b) disconnect on one radius arm
c) 3 link
d) Superior radius arms

Also bear in mind that your front driveshaft will probably bind the uni at full droop unless you have a wide angle yoke or a DC front shaft and if you are running a front anti-roll bar the driveshaft will crash into it at full droop.

Change one thing from stock and you create a whole lot of other compromises.

yeah it will work just that the upward travel won't tuck as much. That is what I thought. I don't think il get that much droop that I need to worry about the drive shaft. I'm also planning to try the 90 without the front sway bar.

I want ant to try stay away from changing the shafts.

Originally Posted by D90 orkney

yeah it will work just that the upward travel won't tuck as much. That is what I thought. I don't think il get that much droop that I need to worry about the drive shaft. I'm also planning to try the 90 without the front sway bar. I want ant to try stay away from changing the shafts.

If you're running a front anti-roll bar and won't be replacing the front shaft stick with stock length dampers. Although I think the TD5's used a wide angle yoke on the front shaft anyway ? I know a Tdi will bind, been there, bought the Tom Woods DC shaft, and I had ditched the front anti-roll bar too. Ran holey bushes for twelve months, they work well at increasing articulation but the compromise is they tend to have a short life and when at the end of their life the on road manners are interesting. I doubt if there are any around anymore either. One point to consider, OE Defender radius arm bushes are twin shell, Disco and RRC are triple shell, one outer, one inner and one in the middle. These are a stiffer bush, they sort of act as an anti-roll bar. Use Defnder ones if you are after increased articulation, or surprisingly Super Pro bushes flex pretty well while still giving good on road manners. [edit] Forgot to ask, TD5 or Tdci ? Tdci will have issues with long travel dampers due to the increased angle of the driveline