Thread: Hello, I'm new to this: Td5 Clutch woes

Mate sorry to hear about your issues.
When the clutch was changed did they replace the clutch master and slave cylinders?
A fault with either of these or the clutch hose can cause your issues.

Hi , It sounds like you covered all bases replacing your clutch . So you need to start and eliminate what your problem is . I would have replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders especialy if you don't know there history . That way you would have covered all the clutch mechonisam . At this point check that they are working ? If your OK then look for oil comming from the botton of the bell housing ? I have heard of the push rod wearing through the cluch folk , not sure if td5 suffered that problem Sorry to say if those are OK then it's gearbox back out to see whats happening in there . Theres not much to a clutch , dual mass flywheel cluch plate , pressure plate and thrust bearing , ad to that a spigot bearing and thats about it . If it's slipping then either your pressure plate has failed , or your cluch plate is worn down . Good luck , let us know how you go ? Jim

Thanks for the replies fellas
The thing with these later landies is, they don't seem to be built like the old stuff. I also have a 79 series 3, a 85 Isuzu 110 and the missus is driving a 97 Tdi300 s1 Disco and these give minimal problems( especially the 110 ) with some pretty serious work.
I will check the master cylinder etc when time allows, I did wonder if maybe it would of been best to have left the rear seal if it was ok, let sleeping dogs lie, 90% of all problems are introduced by people thinking they'll fix something that isn't broke. Yes I do speak from experience.
I'm lucky that I can still use the other landies while I take this to pieces, lets be honest, it's gonna be g\box or engine out. I'll have to work out which is going to be easiest.
The Td5 is such a nice piece of kit though and has only turned 80'000kms from new, was set up as an overlander with no expense spared by the previous owner and work done is top quality too, diff locks front and rear, long range tanks, on board compressor different front seats, the list just goes on.
Will try to get some photo's up when I get chance, I'm not great with these computer things though, I'll have to get the kids to do it.
Cheers

Ok, I had a free couple of hours so did a bit of checking.
There's no fluid of any kind leaking from the bell housing, I removed the two wading plugs from the bottom of the bell housing and tried to get an inspection camera in. Not much success though as it's a pretty tight fit and they're too far forward to see anything of the clutch. Whilst I was flaying around with the camera though I thought I saw what looked like a core plug (welsh plug) and that got me thinking. Do the Td5's have a core plug on the back of the engine? There was what looked like surface rust on some of the flywheel and I had to put about an inch or so of coolant in the expansion bottle the other week.
Checked the fluid level at the master cylinder and a bit low I thought, just over half full but no signs of any leaks there. I did expect the slave to be leaking when I removed that because of the low(ish) level at the master, but again, no leaks and all good. Worked the rod for the fork with the slave off and nice and free, but couldn't get enough pressure on it to work the clutch.
Looks like I'm going to have to remove engine and have a proper look.
Oh yeah, going back to the coolant leak, I couldn't find any external leaks on the engine and so thought may be head gasket but I don't think thats the case as theres no bubbling in the coolant when she's running, oil showing no signs of contamination etc etc.....
Cheers Paul

Originally Posted by Clickweezippo

Looks like I'm going to have to remove engine and have a proper look.

Cheers Paul

Why would you remove the engine to check the clutch ? What's wrong with the 'traditional' method of sliding gearbox & TC backwards after drive shafts and lots of hard to get to linkages etc. are sworn at and disconnected ?

Deano

Deano, I know what you're saying about dropping the box, thats how I've done clutches before, but when I did the clutch in the wifes Tdi300 Disco it was a lot easier to pull the engine out, I thought anyway.
Like you say lots of linkages, gear stick removal, hand brake etc... all done whilst scrawling around on your back under the car, I know with the Fenders you remove the floor and all that, but this stuff never goes back exactly as it came out and I just think engines easier.
Oh I get it you're being sarcastic................Aren't you?
Any way I've never taken a Td5 engine out before so I'll treat it as a learning experience.
Thing is the clutch only slips occasionally, and at random times so I'll properly leave it til it's slipping all the time and then do it !

Hi Deano , I put a new clutch in my td5 a few months back . I didn't replace the rear seal as some say , but I did the flywheel spigot bearing cluch and presure plate and thrust bearing . My oddometer was at 275,000 ks . I'm not sure it was original because I brought it at 150,000ks . What I can say is it was in very good condition . The thrust bearing was my problem , but as it was stripped down and I had brought all the kit I fitted it anyway . Back to your question , We recone it would have been easyer to take the engine out , there is a lot of work taking the gearbox out , I didn't want to try and move it back . I'm sure there is a core plug at the back of the block , I would change all of them if you find this is your problem . I changed the side 3 due to one that was rusted out , not an easy job with the engine in place , lots of things to take off to get access . Good luck and let us know how you get on . Jim