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Thread: Puma starting issues, couple of them?

  1. #1
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    Puma starting issues, couple of them?

    Hi, what do you think

    2.4 puma, strong battery and cranks as should, fuel filter changed every 10K with LR spec castrol oil. 170K Km. Car when running, idles cleanly and runs as per should.

    Start issue #1 car glows as per normal but when key turned nothing but silence. All lights stay on in dash cluster except glow plug which normally goes out anyway. Very random, I would say 5% of starts. Usually after car has run for 30 minutes from a cold start, then shut down for 5 minutes and attempted to restart. Like getting fuel on the way home from work. Issues has been around for 12 months.


    Start issue #2 car cranks and nothing fires. This can happen for a 5 seconds on first attempt. Second attempt often there is a half fire before more cranking. Third attempt it starts as should and runs as should. Sometimes there is a 2 to 3lt puff of white smoke that dissipated quickly. I believe this is failing injector seals. No loss of power or performance when running.
    Recent issue developed in the last week.

    regards
    Jason
    Jason

    2010 130 TDCi

  2. #2
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    My first guess would be the ignition switch - just to confirm, you hear NOTHING when you turn to crank? No sound at all from the starter?

    But if not that, will need wiser minds to jump in.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by skidrov View Post
    My first guess would be the ignition switch - just to confirm, you hear NOTHING when you turn to crank? No sound at all from the starter?But if not that, will need wiser minds to jump in.
    Plus 1 here. Had similar symptoms, was the ignition switch.
    Neil
    (Really shouldn't be a...) Grumpy old fart!
    MY2013 2.2l TDCi Dual Cab Ute
    Nulla tenaci invia est via

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by newhue View Post
    Hi, what do you think

    2.4 puma, strong battery and cranks as should, fuel filter changed every 10K with LR spec castrol oil. 170K Km. Car when running, idles cleanly and runs as per should.

    Start issue #1 car glows as per normal but when key turned nothing but silence. All lights stay on in dash cluster except glow plug which normally goes out anyway. Very random, I would say 5% of starts. Usually after car has run for 30 minutes from a cold start, then shut down for 5 minutes and attempted to restart. Like getting fuel on the way home from work. Issues has been around for 12 months.

    [...]
    Your Issue #1 was exactly what I had experienced. Started random and infrequent. Then over a period of months became more frequent, to the point that every start would take a few goes. LR replaced the ignition switch - solved.
    Neil
    (Really shouldn't be a...) Grumpy old fart!
    MY2013 2.2l TDCi Dual Cab Ute
    Nulla tenaci invia est via

  5. #5
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    Ignition switch

  6. #6
    Tombie Guest
    Issue 2 - I wouldn't worry about the smoke just yet... probably just a little extra fuel injected that needed to dissipate.

    Issue 1 either Ignition barrel of 10AS

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    Quote Originally Posted by skidrov View Post
    My first guess would be the ignition switch - just to confirm, you hear NOTHING when you turn to crank? No sound at all from the starter?

    But if not that, will need wiser minds to jump in.
    Yes not a sound.
    Jason

    2010 130 TDCi

  8. #8
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    Thanks lads

    it always astounds me the speed and often uniformity of this forum. I have a story about LR that i wont bore you with, but speed, accuracy, and cost are not on their side.

    I have learned the puff of smoke is unburnt fuel as you suggest tombie. Makes sense if the motor is cranking and no or not enough fuel is being deliverred. Issue #2 appears to be as randon as issue #1, as the car stated fine cold a couple times yesterday. Perhaps the fix is in the same ignition switch.

    Is an ignition switch an easy plug in type affort, or do I need special tooling.
    Jason

    2010 130 TDCi

  9. #9
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    I recently had the ignition switch on my Puma replaced. It had to be drilled out as apparently is fitted with anti-theft or some such bolts. They also coated in lock-tite just to make it easier. I would suggest taking to a reputable Land Rover mechanic. I had Ward at Graeme Coopers do the work in Sydney.
    Cheers
    Travelrover

    Adventure before Dementia

    2012 Puma 90 - Black
    1999 Td5 110 Ute - White
    1996 Tdi 300 Wagon - White

  10. #10
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    The ignition lock/barrel assembly are the ones that need to be drilled out. If it's only the switch, it's not so bad - I've just done mine (thanks to those who gave pointers along the way). It's fiddly, but no special tools or shear bolt drilling.

    Note that some cars did have the ignition lock/barrel stick - there's a service note on this - and then you DO need the lock replaced. Based on what you've described it sounds like it might only be the switch.

    The switch can be original or aftermarket. In Melbourne, I was offered a Lucas one for about $90 or a pattern switch for about $40 (both excluding delivery). I've gone pattern.

    Process:

    - Disconnect battery.
    - Remove upper column shroud.
    - Remove instrument binnacle.
    - The switch is at the end of the lock assembly, remove small screw retaining it.
    - Note which wire goes where, remove the (probably) 4 wires on the switch assembly (tight work space, and that harness doesn't have much slack).
    - Might need to lightly tap out the old switch - tabs protrude to allow this.
    - Rinse and repeat, noting that it is fiddly to line the switch up in the correct spot, as it's a tight fit with limited work space - it has to go a certain way. Finally, I used blu-tac on the end of a screwdriver to refit the small screw so I didn't loose it.

    My guesstimate is a 1 to 2 hour job, go to stop. Not the worst task.

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