Thread: Puma 2.2 not starting

Have you tried arming the disarming the alarm?

Failing that, try reseating (remove/replace) all the fuses and relays under the steering wheel, and under the seat.

Cheers,

Originally Posted by TimNZ

Have you tried arming the disarming the alarm?

Failing that, try reseating (remove/replace) all the fuses and relays under the steering wheel, and under the seat.

Cheers,

Thanks TimNZ

Done all that now, no difference except my fingers will never be the same. My girlfriend who drives it most of the time did tell me this morning that it armed/locked while the key was in the ignition and she was in the drivers seat the other day.

Any other suggestions?

I should have mentioned that the starter is not turning (thought it was at first) just a clicking noise which I guess is the starter solenoid. Fuel pumps primes as normal no fuel leaks, everything else normal.

*Any drop in how fast the engine turns over can prevent it from starting.
*Even a slow turn over that is just noticeable compared to normal start can prevent starting.
*This is compounded with colder weather.
*A jump pack on a drained/low not holding a charge battery, will drain the jump pack.
*A "smart" jump pack may also not actually see a low battery and therefore not output to start.
*Loose/dirty terminal clamps will also give poor starting.
*If using jump leads from another vehicle, you will need to leave connected and running to put some surface charge back into the battery.

*Modern diesels I use a smart jump pack that has an over-ride button to output regardless if it sees a battery or not.
*Try removing the battery from the vehicle and put it on charge
*I say REMOVE battery from vehicle as any fumes from charging will build up inside the Defender.
*While batteries in a Defender tend to last longer (as its away from engine bay heat), 3 - 4 years can be the norm for a battery.

Regards
Daz

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

*Any drop in how fast the engine turns over can prevent it from starting.
*Even a slow turn over that is just noticeable compared to normal start can prevent starting.
*This is compounded with colder weather.
*A jump pack on a drained/low not holding a charge battery, will drain the jump pack.
*A "smart" jump pack may also not actually see a low battery and therefore not output to start.
*Loose/dirty terminal clamps will also give poor starting.
*If using jump leads from another vehicle, you will need to leave connected and running to put some surface charge back into the battery.

*Modern diesels I use a smart jump pack that has an over-ride button to output regardless if it sees a battery or not.
*Try removing the battery from the vehicle and put it on charge
*I say REMOVE battery from vehicle as any fumes from charging will build up inside the Defender.
*While batteries in a Defender tend to last longer (as its away from engine bay heat), 3 - 4 years can be the norm for a battery.

Regards
Daz

Thanks Daz

Lots of good points. I am pretty sure this is the original battery (2012) so must be close to/past "use by date". Fortunately or unfortunate depending on how you view it the vehicle is in the shed which limits access to the passenger side so jumping from another vehicle is not an option unless I push it out of the shed, and then due to a gradient I will not be able to get it back in by myself unless she starts. Plenty of room on the drivers side of course! The vehicle is in as new condition and the battery box is squeaky clean I don't think the cover has ever been off until I bought it last year.

My mission this morning was to take it the local Auto electrician and have him evaluate the battery condition, but we didn't even get out of the shed.

all resolved, swapped the battery out of the Td5 and away we went. New battery in there now.

thanks all for your suggestions.