Thanks. Sounds great, I am going to order one, it's cheaper now, less than 28 USD.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoMick
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Thanks. Sounds great, I am going to order one, it's cheaper now, less than 28 USD.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoMick
I also found that the hose circulating hot water from the radiator was pressing hard against the ventilation ducts, so when the coolant was boiling after maybe 10 minutes of driving the heat soaked through the ducting and warmed the ventilation air, so the air-con was less effective. I have tried sticking various types of heat shielding to separate the ventilation ducting from the heater hose, and it has improved it, but I'm still not totally satisfied.
This pic shows the coolant pipe above the heat insulation I have stuck on the ventilation ducting. It's very bodgy, but seems to help. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...74b1b60e24.jpg
Anybody tried one of these:
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16mm (5/8") Heater Control Valve - Pull to Bypass, Kit Car, Classic Car Taxi TX2 | eBay
Cheers
RF
That looks like the one I got. It was Fiat Citroen.
Both arrived and one fitted, all good now :0)Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Fischer
RF
Is the air-con staying cool?
Yes. Free air stays at ambient. Found that early symptom of valve of failure is allowing "hot" water to pass. Aluminium deck under the vents gets warmish after failure.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoMick
Cheers
RF
Hi,
Adding to the warm air problem can also be engine bay air leaking in where the intake duct enters a poorly sealed box close to the firewall.
Mine had some foam tape hanging from the joint and free access for the hot engine bay air.
Till this was fixed, the air con was needed if the day was mildly warm.
Cheers